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Author Subject: Wilwood Brackets group buy?
phillipm

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Post #226
The caliper has no thread in it you bellend.
If you were such a f**king expert why didn't you make your own?

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 01:20
manthos

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Post #227
phillipm wrote:
The caliper has no thread in it you bellend.
If you were such a f**king expert why didn't you make your own?


True caliper has no thread, my mistake you northern cock sucker. go stick a dildo up your arse I'm going to bed

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 01:27
phillipm

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Post #228
You know what, I was being nice here, I was going to protect my IP, have you mark them so there was no come back to me and leave you selling them to the guys.

Since you're being a c**t about people's safety, expect a formal Cease and Desist letter through the post, consider this advanced warning.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 01:37
aaron6

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Post #229
phillipm wrote:
aaron6 wrote:
I'm a toolmaker and was wondering what is wrong with the threads being tapped instead if formed. I guess it's down to the grain structure in the material? This is why at my old workplace where automotive shafts were made from forgings so the grain structure followed the contours of the work peice. But would it make that much difference on these brackets if the bolts are torqued up correctly and glued in?


Exactly, the strength benefit is negligible (~15-20%) - but the difference in fatigue resistance, especially at elevated temperatures (it is a brake bracket after all), is enormous.
No, you don't need to have a thread in there, you can just drill it out, pop a bolt through and stick a steel nut on the backside, much the same as is done on most brake bells.
But that's a bit less elegant.
Tbf that's a fair bit stronger. I've been toying with making me a bracket to fit my Renault brembos from my 310mm kit so I can adapt then to use the 305mm 406 coupe disc which is obviously a lot cheaper than rotors. I'll probably machine them from steel as it's free at my place for me. But my question would be, I guess in a material this much stronger than aluminium would I be able to happily just tap the holes? I can get hold of EN24T too which may be a better shout.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 08:57
manthos

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Post #230
phillipm wrote:
You know what, I was being nice here, I was going to protect my IP, have you mark them so there was no come back to me and leave you selling them to the guys.

Since you're being a c**t about people's safety, expect a formal Cease and Desist letter through the post, consider this advanced warning.


do whatever you want I don't give a s**t I was being humerous it's called banter you always have great banter on here.
There is enough evidence on this thread that you were not bothered about copying the brackets and you had the opportunity to have your say. you don't have a leg to stand on it court especially as I will mark them anyway if you want to waste your time and money go ahead

and I am not being a c**t about people's safety that is paramount to me I said already that I will make sure the threads are string enough and you have also pointed out people if they are worried can put a bolt on the other side making no possible chace of any problems

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 09:29
aaron6

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Post #231
Could use a longer bolt and use the thread in the bracket and put a lock nut as a secondary back up measure.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 09:35
phillipm

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Post #232
Just pop a nylock on the backside will do it, or as I said early, a quids worth of helicoils.

Aaron, PM me or start a thread if you want about yours, it's not an issue in steel, I'll explain in there, I'm done with this thread, I'm not arguing about fatigue strength in my own design with someone who can't figure out which way the bolt goes through the caliper.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 09:48
manthos

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Post #233
phillipm wrote:
Just pop a nylock on the backside will do it, or as I said early, a quids worth of helicoils.

Aaron, PM me or start a thread if you want about yours, it's not an issue in steel, I'll explain in there, I'm done with this thread, I'm not arguing about fatigue strength in my own design with someone who can't figure out which way the bolt goes through the caliper.


Yes I agree you should stop talking to less inteligent people than yourself it is beneath you, after all I am only a window cleaner and therfore a lesser human.

Thanks for your input so late on in the process and for people's safety I shall helicoil them or they can just fit a nylon bolt in the end and we will not ever have to worry about anyone getting hurt.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 10:00
welshpug!

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Post #234
nylon bolts?!

Laugh my ass off

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 11:00
bigbadbowen

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Post #235
This is all very amusing but can I just have something that works please
Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 11:16
aaron6

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Post #236
phillipm wrote:
Just pop a nylock on the backside will do it, or as I said early, a quids worth of helicoils.

Aaron, PM me or start a thread if you want about yours, it's not an issue in steel, I'll explain in there, I'm done with this thread, I'm not arguing about fatigue strength in my own design with someone who can't figure out which way the bolt goes through the caliper.
Cheers Phil. I'll give you a shout when I have my bracket design and dimensions. I'd rather not start a thread incase more people want them as I can't be arsed to make them
LOL

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 13:58
fatlapit

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Post #237
you do know u can already buy a willwood set up on ebay for a 306??

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 14:06
aaron6

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Post #238
I believe the discs are more expensive as they don't use the gti6 discs

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 14:08
gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #239
Yeah specialised discs that cost £££
The idea behind Phill/Welly's was so that standard Discs could be used,...

Rallye Design do the setup I believe?

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 14:16
fatlapit

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Post #240
How often do ya change ya discs??

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 14:29
aaron6

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Post #241
I got the 310mm bells and rotors and the rotors are all over £300. So I'm using up my rotors and making a braking to fit the 406 coupe discs which are 305mm and less than a £100. So for me as it's doing 15k+ every year it's a no brainer so I can see the use of this kit.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 14:38
fatlapit

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Post #242
surely they don't need changing after 15k though

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 16:25
aaron6

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Post #243
After 30k. But spending and extra £250 every 2 years for an extra 5mm on the disc and a slightly lighter seems daft first what mines usually used for.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 18:01
pugheaven

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Post #244
But the 406 ones weigh twice as much as the bell and rotors combo lol
Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 21:46
lee306rallye

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Post #245
I've just spent the last 20 mins reading this thread. Will this end up on judge rinder?would be great tv. But I have to side with Phill on this on. I'm saying no more

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 22:25
aaron6

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Post #246
pugheaven wrote:
But the 406 ones weigh twice as much as the bell and rotors combo lol
less than a 1/3 of the cost. I can't justify the cash for rotors everytime I need them.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 23:24
welshpug!

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Post #247
you need to brake less, people brake too much these days.

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Posted 10th Nov 2016 at 23:47
fatlapit

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Post #248
Christ lots of anality to keep oe discs lol.

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 00:13
fatlapit

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Post #249
Too bloody small if youve got a fast car anyway........just saying

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 00:14
bigbadbowen

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Post #250
Hmmm not on a 205
Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 08:50

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