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Author Subject: Omex wiring
demondriverdan

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Post #1
I'm wiring in my Omex 600 with the Omex throttle bodies today and not sure on a few things.

1) I should just be able to connect the ECU to existing sensors and it will work? Do I need to calibrate them with the ECU or something?

2) Similarly, will the crank position sensor just work? The Omex installation manual talks about hall effect vs. MVR sensors. Is the standard one hall effect?

3) Where do you fit the MAP sensor when running throttle bodies?

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:09
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prism7guy

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Post #2
I've just bought myself a dta so I've been doing s bit of reading up on this stuff too.
As far as I know the crank position sensor is a Hall effect type.
I think with throttle bodies people tend to fit the map sensor in the backplate.
As far as I know all the standard sensors can be used but don't quote me on that one.

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:15
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demondriverdan

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Post #3
In retrospect I should have bought a pre-made loom but oh well, committed now!

I've seen people say the same thing about putting MAP sensor on the backplate but some people run without air filters, where do they put theirs? I ask as my backplate and filter haven't arrived yet.

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:28
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jorg

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Post #4
didn't think most people used the map sensor with bodies, normally its the air temp sensor that goes on the back plate

the crank position sensor will be fine Yes just make sure you use shielded wire

edit: its not hall effect Doh guessing you need the MVR option as on the DTA we use magnetic

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:37
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demondriverdan

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Post #5
Interesting, I've read in a few places it's hall effect! Making it hall effect means I have to put a jumper onto the ECU board itself

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:47
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prism7guy

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Post #6
Looking at the wiring diagram for my ecu the Hall effect has three wires running to it, whilst the vr type just has two. I guess checking how many wires are on the sensor plug would be a good clue, I'll go and check mine in a bit.

I've got to make up a loom for mine this weekend, I can see it being a lot of fun... Laugh

The one thing I've not been able to source for mine is like a multi pin bulkhead connector, so I can have a loom for the engine bay and one for inside the cabin where I want to mount the ecu.

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:51
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pete_rallye

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Post #7
I'd just wire it up to exisiting sensors Dan, then look in the software when the engines running to see if the measured temp is similar to the actual temp, which you'll have to measure with an infra red gun or something like that.

Fairly certain the standard crank is an inductive type, not sure what MVR stands for but its not a hall sensor. Despite there been 3 wires to the sensor, one is just a shield to prevent interference and its actually a 2 wire sensor, same as the cam sensor basically.

I just attach my MAP sensor in the engine bay where there shouldn't be any massive change in air pressure. I assume you aren't talking about using it to actually measure inlet manifold vacuum, as that's a right pain in the arse and of no real use. It'll more than likely be mapped from TPS/Load.

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:59
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prism7guy

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Post #8
Ahh thanks for clearing up the third wire thing Pete Thumbs up

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 10:53
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demondriverdan

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Post #9
Cheers Pete. I've got an IR gun so can do that! Definitely has 3 wires, I'm in the workshop at the moment so easy to check Smile

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 11:03
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welshpug!

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Post #10
no need to faff with the ir gun, just select the appropriate sender, the bosch senders used by most as a stck reference item has the same range as the jaeger green sender.

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 11:18
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demondriverdan

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Post #11
The Omex loom came with an air temp sensor so I'll use that

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 11:20
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cully

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Post #12
pete_rallye wrote:
not sure what MVR stands for but .


Magnetic Variable Reluctance (MVR) or VR sensor

you can work them out as they have a magnetic pick-up tip usually

the hall effect sensor works in opposite they have to look at a magnet to see the signal normally,
as opposed to the mvr wich carrys the magnet inside itself
Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 11:40
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pete_rallye

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Post #13
Figured it was something Variable Reluctance! Yep, VR sensors just need to look at something magnetic, whereas Hall sensors need an actual magnet as the trigger.

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 11:44
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miles

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Post #14
The pre made looms are just that and the fit isn't great at all but they are made to fit most car's
Crank sensor just make sure that the 62 -2 is selected but a base map might get it up and running so no need to muck around with anything, the mapper will do the TPS as the bodies will need balancing up
If you need a base map I have a couple that should work

I have heard that bulkhead connectors can cause issues with signals etc which is why I have never tried one, maybe a gold plated one would be OK but any connection increases resistance

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 20:42
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prism7guy

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Post #15
miles wrote:
I have heard that bulkhead connectors can cause issues with signals etc which is why I have never tried one, maybe a gold plated one would be OK but any connection increases resistance


Ah right, thanks for that miles, i won't bother with one then. Smile

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 21:08
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demondriverdan

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Post #16
I've got a base map so should be ok. Buying all new plugs to connect in to the existing sensors first though

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Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 21:39
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pete_rallye

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Post #17
I've got one of these as a bulkhead connector, glad I didn't have to buy it though!

http://www.m-cal.com/Products/MC03-368089/66Way-MoTeC-66-Pin-Autosport-(M880-Connector-E816---DBW4)

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Lap of the 'ring
Posted 28th Jun 2015 at 21:49
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blandy

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Post #18
Dan was it a hall or mvr crank sensor in the end? Just going through the exact same as sat here with the omex manual and wondering if I need to put a jumper in or not lol

Is yours up and running now?
Posted 5th Dec 2015 at 18:22
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craig903

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Post #19
Crank sensor is magnetic, Its pins are sensor, earth, shield
Cam sensor is a hall effect sensor

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Posted 5th Dec 2015 at 18:49
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demondriverdan

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Post #20
I didn't put a jumper in. Mine runs with no problems although I haven't started it in a few months!

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Posted 6th Dec 2015 at 20:34
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miles

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Post #21
Default setting is fine when new, never ever changed one

________________________________________

306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

Road, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements,
Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities
New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's
We now also carry out Routine Servicing
www.pugracing.com

& FB Page, https://www.facebook.com/PugRacing

Ebay; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pug-Racing-Shop

2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way,
Posted 6th Dec 2015 at 21:00
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