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Author Subject: Satchshift brief fitting guide
Day666

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Post #51
Also spray coated with temp seal once the wet wrap was dry to stop it holding liquids & water of any kind !!!

So that proves I really do want this Satchell shift to workout !

Ollie silly question which I'm sure you have thought about ?
Could the hole in the bulkhead have gone any lower downwards then keeping the boot away from the manifold flange ???

Day666 has attached the following image:

Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 12:31
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #52
I think that will be enough mate personally I'd use the Lava polymer heat wrap as I know that is very good stuff?

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 12:36
Day666

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Post #53
superchargedblack1997gti6 wrote:
I think that will be enough mate personally I'd use the Lava polymer heat wrap as I know that is very good stuff?


This was both the very best stuff they stock & this cost £170.00 Razz
But as Ollie said without the tunnel heat shields it going to get very toasty inside the car with that bloody Satchell shift !!!
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 12:54
superchargedblack1997gti6

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Post #54
No need for a heater then? I'm a bit concerned as I know the boosted cars make the manifold glow red hot on full boost!

________________________________________

Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 13:38
pugheaven

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Post #55
You have a ceramic coated manifold though don't you Ross? I know I haven't given mine stick yet but the tunnel didn't get too hot! I will do something regarding heat shields or wrap but not sure what yet
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 15:02
Chr1sch

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Post #56
Gulp I'm majorly worried about this now, both in terms of my ability to ever fit it and the fact bits are melting. For the money is expect this to be better than that?!
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 21:36
devere

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Post #57
Does the boot have to be run that side of the bulkhead? I cant see from the pictures whether there is anything to stop it being run inside, the other side of the hole, to stop it melting against the exhaust.

I also think a lot of people are missing the point of the completion part design of the parts... Its not the sort of thing that is meant to be run on your everyday road car. Of course its going to take some compromises to use like that. With a race car etc im sure there are different ways of solving some of the problems, that you wouldn't want to do on your daily driver!

I had one in my rally car previously. But I certainly wouldn't have put it in my road car.
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 22:02
Chr1sch

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Post #58
Any particular reason why you don't run one now devere? (FYI mine is a track car but I like to take it for a thrash now and again, all of that said I hate bodgery so want it done right and not melting...)
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 22:40
devere

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Post #59
Well I had it fitted originally on a normal box. Made the shift shorter for sure. I think I probably could have had it slightly better set up tho.

I stuck with it when I bought the dog box and that's when I started having problems. I was really struggling as the shift was so short.

Now I'm back to a standard gear stick, but with rose jointed links I made up and I can see why. The dog box as standard has a far shorter shift than a normal be3. The satchshift obviously made it too short. So no problem with the shifter. Just not appropriate for my box.
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 22:53
pugheaven

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Post #60
The boot can't go inside, I'm going to have a play with some neoprene and have the sheet sandwiched between the tube and the bulk head, this should stop crap getting in and also allow the bar to move around freely.

These kind of things are what modifying is about, granted its something we shouldn't have to do especially as they were aware it was too close to the manifold and likely to melt
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 23:07
Day666

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Post #61
Mines not a everyday drive & never was ....I've gone to the dark side now ..EG Trackdays & have buckets etc etc it is used every now & then for a street thrashing but mainly set up for Fast road / track now !!!

Only did 1200miles the whole of last year Crazy

I don't mind Modifying things as long as they work ?
I know what you mean by not wanting it on your daily drive but I'm afraid I'm a lot of mods past that stage LOL

Ollie please keep us updated Thumbs up
Are you 100% sure it's not possible to lower the hole to miss the manifold flange ????.....just a thought Ollie Whistle
Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 23:17
pete_rallye

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Post #62
If Pugheaven has melted his on a 14 mile test drive not revving it past 4k rpm, then I don't hold much hope for it under any sort of spirited driving, yet alone a track day. Exhaust wrap won't do f**k all at those temps, best bet is to make a multi layer heat shield using that zircoflex stuff or similar with an air gap between each layer.

________________________________________

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Posted 19th Apr 2015 at 23:33
Day666

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Post #63
pete_rallye wrote:
If Pugheaven has melted his on a 14 mile test drive not revving it past 4k rpm, then I don't hold much hope for it under any sort of spirited driving, yet alone a track day. Exhaust wrap won't do f**k all at those temps, best bet is to make a multi layer heat shield using that zircoflex stuff or similar with an air gap between each layer.


Thumbs up
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 03:51
pugheaven

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Post #64
Na you can't lower it as the rod needs to connect to the eye end that is in a fixed position on the upright
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 08:44
welshpug!

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Post #65
main reason I havent got very far with it is I've only spent an hour and I dont want to take the engine out LOL

nor have I anywhere to work on cars, most tinkering is done on a sloped parking space.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 10:39
welshpug!

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Post #66
devere wrote:
Well I had it fitted originally on a normal box. Made the shift shorter for sure. I think I probably could have had it slightly better set up tho.

I stuck with it when I bought the dog box and that's when I started having problems. I was really struggling as the shift was so short.

Now I'm back to a standard gear stick, but with rose jointed links I made up and I can see why. The dog box as standard has a far shorter shift than a normal be3. The satchshift obviously made it too short. So no problem with the shifter. Just not appropriate for my box.


quite strange Martin, given Tony Palfrey, Colin Satchell and Dean gammon have Satchshifts and Drenth dog gearsets, I'd imagine more of an issue with the lever arm lengths on the box than anything, these kits are very different to the old pure motorsport kits.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 10:41
buzzbrightyear

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Post #67
Sounds like a pile of s**t

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My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 11:03
devere

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Post #68
welshpug! wrote:
devere wrote:
Well I had it fitted originally on a normal box. Made the shift shorter for sure. I think I probably could have had it slightly better set up tho.

I stuck with it when I bought the dog box and that's when I started having problems. I was really struggling as the shift was so short.

Now I'm back to a standard gear stick, but with rose jointed links I made up and I can see why. The dog box as standard has a far shorter shift than a normal be3. The satchshift obviously made it too short. So no problem with the shifter. Just not appropriate for my box.


quite strange Martin, given Tony Palfrey, Colin Satchell and Dean gammon have Satchshifts and Drenth dog gearsets, I'd imagine more of an issue with the lever arm lengths on the box than anything, these kits are very different to the old pure motorsport kits.


Quite possibly Mei. I don't really know the ins and out of what's going on inside the box. I know the side to side selector arm is the same as normal. While the other arm curved upwards is less of a distance away from the box. Probably shortening that throw.

I'm using the standard setup now albeit with the rose jointed linkages. And it's a short shift for sure.

As said above, I think it just wasn't going to work with the box and whichever part makes it shorter. Although it worked with the previous one very well. I certainly had no complaints about the setup itself.
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 11:42
Day666

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Post #69
Guess what's on its way to me Thumbs up
Let the fun begin Roll eyes
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 16:44
Chr1sch

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Post #70
Awesome, hope that means its coming my way too - god i hope its not a waste of money
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 16:52
Day666

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Post #71
Chr1sch wrote:
Awesome, hope that means its coming my way too - god i hope its not a waste of money

Don't know but mine should of been sent in first batch but one was missing so say ?
Going to struggle to fit for Sat / Spring Performance day at Combe !!!
Posted 20th Apr 2015 at 17:10
Chr1sch

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Post #72
One can only hope lol
Posted 21st Apr 2015 at 07:11
pugheaven

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Post #73
For all of you that are worried about the boot melting.....
I didn't raise the problem to Colin however they have seen this thread and have kindly emailed me with a solution!
They are sending me a rubber sheet to sandwich between the tube and bulk head ( which I suggested I was going to do further up in the thread so saves me messing around) I will trial this for them and report back but it's clearly going to solve the problem so hopefully they will send these out to everyone that has purchased the kit (not right away as I will need to trial it first)

I will make it high on my list of jobs to do but I am a bit limited on time to work on the car at the moment so bare with me and Colin
Posted 22nd Apr 2015 at 16:18
Chr1sch

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Post #74
awesome that is great news!
Posted 22nd Apr 2015 at 17:54
Day666

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Post #75
pugheaven wrote:
For all of you that are worried about the boot melting.....
I didn't raise the problem to Colin however they have seen this thread and have kindly emailed me with a solution!
They are sending me a rubber sheet to sandwich between the tube and bulk head ( which I suggested I was going to do further up in the thread so saves me messing around) I will trial this for them and report back but it's clearly going to solve the problem so hopefully they will send these out to everyone that has purchased the kit (not right away as I will need to trial it first)

I will make it high on my list of jobs to do but I am a bit limited on time to work on the car at the moment so bare with me and Colin


That's brilliant news Thumbs up
Posted 22nd Apr 2015 at 21:37

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