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Author Subject: Evans Waterless Coolant
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #1
I was reading about this and one of the alleged benefits is that if you change to the waterless coolant, the cooling system is not pressurised to the same extent it is with normal water/antifreeze mix.

Would this have a beneficial effect on, for example, extending the life of the heater matrix as the lack of pressure might reduce strain on it? Or is my theory incorrect. Just wondering whether the change is worth doing as it costs a bit.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 9th Oct 2014 at 22:00
Tarmac terror

Regular

Location: Southampton

Registered: 20 Mar 2014

Posts: 458

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Post #2
Seen them use this on Wheeler Dealers. Also met the guys from Evans at Autosport last year.

Best to use this in a completely fresh installation i.e. a rebuilt engine which has NO water in it. However you CAN replace a water based coolant as long as you follow the recommendations.

Its not exactly cheap but i feel that the benefits are worth the hassle of converting from water..


TT
Posted 9th Oct 2014 at 23:21
RetroPug

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Location: Leicestershire

Registered: 15 Jan 2013

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Post #3
In terms of actual cooling water is pretty much the best fluid to transfer heat away. Even they admit that it runs hotter:

"The operating temperature of the engine and coolant may increase slightly, by approximately 3-7 degrees. However the temperature inside the engine will be consistent and steam vapour will not be produced. i.e engines often run cooler with Evans Waterless Coolants"

Although curiously they do claim it runs 3-7 degrees hotter but also cooler at the same time.


The cavitated water pump is replaced when you do a cambelt change and if you flush coolant at recommended intervals and have corrosion inhibitors and anti-freeze in the mixture as you normally would I don't really see what the problem with running water as a coolant is.

A properly serviced water cooled system should be more than adequate and I'm not sure why you'd 'upgrade' to something that runs hotter to solve a problem that doesn't really exist? In other words, it already works perfectly so in what way would it be an improvement?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 10th Oct 2014 at 12:26
pugheaven

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Location: Fareham

Registered: 17 Dec 2006

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Post #4
The only advantage I see is that the cooling system will not be pressurised so less stress on the rad and heater matrix
Posted 10th Oct 2014 at 13:16
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #5
pugheaven wrote:
The only advantage I see is that the cooling system will not be pressurised so less stress on the rad and heater matrix


That is what I was wanting to establish.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Oct 2014 at 17:18
RetroPug

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Location: Leicestershire

Registered: 15 Jan 2013

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Post #6
But then a properly designed radiator has been designed to withstand the pressure of a cooling system which is only a few bar.

I'm not trying to be negative and put your idea down! Just trying to play out all the pros and cons really as it is a big investment so it is definitely good to be sure of the benefits and trade-offs. I think like everything it is a compromise, less corrosion etc., no pressure, but slightly hotter running and cost as a trade-off.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 11th Oct 2014 at 18:19
buzzbrightyear

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Location: hiding all receipts for car

Registered: 09 Jul 2008

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Post #7
How much is it?

________________________________________

andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1
Posted 11th Oct 2014 at 19:24
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #8
Buzz, I think it is the thick end of £200 by the time you get the system flushed with the prep fluid to get rid of residual water etc.

RetroPug wrote:
But then a properly designed radiator has been designed to withstand the pressure of a cooling system which is only a few bar.


Maybe I should have been clearer in my first post. A radiator is much easier to change than a heater matrix. Specifically, is the pressure in the cooling system a factor in making the heater matrix fail, and would the heater matrix last significantly longer in the absence of such pressure. If it did, it might make the change of Evans coolant a consideration.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 11th Oct 2014 at 20:09
RetroPug

Seasoned Pro

Location: Leicestershire

Registered: 15 Jan 2013

Posts: 2,473

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Post #9
That is a good point, and I've never had to change a heater matrix but realise that taking the dash out is probably a right pain!

I would consider that a Nissens heater matrix is about 30-40 pounds and the original ones seem to break after 10-15 years so hopefully the replacement then lasts the life of the car?

I've no idea whether or not it would last longer at low pressure, I'm not familiar with which part it is that starts to leak first etc. Do you not need a different pump etc. as well?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 11th Oct 2014 at 21:35

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