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Author Subject: Aux Belt Tensioning
RetroPug

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Post #1
How do you tension a non-auto tensioning aux belt? I'm asking about my ph.1 non-aircon but I imagine other non-aircon models have the same tensioner. The tensioner is the type shown in the picture (number 4) and I'll be using a brand new one as there is a LOT of play in the current one.

There is a slider in the bracket for the pulley, and a bolt above it (number 5).

Obviously I could make a good go of getting the belt tight, but I'd like to know what the correct procedure is? How tight is 'tight enough'?

Thanks

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 8th Jun 2014 at 17:44
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eddy_gti6

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Post #2
Here is a non a/c setup. Swnsioner screw is on the top. Tensioner pulley is in place but not bolted on in this pic


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Posted 8th Jun 2014 at 17:53
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RetroPug

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Post #3
Yes that's the set up I have, I'm asking is there a specific way to tension it up? Do you just have the tensioning screw the same place as before and bolt up the mounting bracket?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 8th Jun 2014 at 20:28
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eddy_gti6

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Post #4
Yes mate

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Posted 8th Jun 2014 at 20:33
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RetroPug

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Post #5
Great, thanks a lot mate!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 8th Jun 2014 at 20:38
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RetroPug

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Post #6
To save starting a new thread, the aux belt I fit around the time of making this thread is starting to look worn which leads me to suspect it has been over tightened. I fit it with the tensioning bolt in the same position as the previous owner and it looks exactly like the worn one it replaced less than a year on.
I hope it hasn't introduced play into a brand new tensioner and a replacement PAS pump.

Is there a good rule of thumb for aux belt tension? eg. should be able to twist 90deg or 45deg or something?
I plan to just wind it off a bit but it'd be nice to know.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 20th Feb 2015 at 12:37
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armzsc6

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Post #7
Rule of thumb for any belt is should be able to twist it 45 degrees on the longest part between pulleys.

What your supposed to do is slacken the 2 13mm bolts that hold the tensioner then wind back the 5/6mm Allen key tensioner bolt till the belt goes slack as the tensioner moves up.

Then remove and replace the belt, tighten down the tensioner bolt from the top until the belt is at correct tension then tighten the 2 13mm bolts that hold it in place. Simples Thumbs up

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Posted 20th Feb 2015 at 22:36
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RetroPug

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Post #8
I see, thank you.
That's pretty much how I did it last time but tightened the belt to what it was before which clearly is what killed the last one!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 23rd Feb 2015 at 12:13
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Puggitt

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Post #9
I go by, 10mm of belt path deviation between two pulleys. Always seemed right for me
Posted 23rd Feb 2015 at 19:04
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armzsc6

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Post #10
Puggitt wrote:
I go by, 10mm of belt path deviation between two pulleys. Always seemed right for me


Depends how far apart the pullys are...

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Black power baby! SUUUUUPERCHARGED Superman
Seat Leon FR TDI 190BHP 300lbft daily gti-6 killer :p
12x 306's owned so far

Cambelts, clutches, service work carried out on All makes and models, Peugeot Citroen / mitsubishi specialist.
Pug planet / Citroen Lexia diagnostics / code reads available.
Posted 24th Feb 2015 at 19:37
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RetroPug

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Post #11
armzs16 wrote:
Puggitt wrote:
I go by, 10mm of belt path deviation between two pulleys. Always seemed right for me


Depends how far apart the pullys are...


I agree but I'll keep it in mind.
Still haven't received the belt yet. Big grin

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Feb 2015 at 12:24
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Niall

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Post #12
Any of you guys running S/C, do you tension the belt any more? Do the lynx kits have two pullies at the bottom the the SC pulley so its has virtually a wrap all the way round?
Posted 1st Mar 2015 at 17:45
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