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Author Subject: Guide to fitting a larger master cylinder
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #1
This will probably be one of the easiest things you can do on the car. After having issues with a long brake pedal on the race car with Ash's 310mm kit fitted I asked around and it was suggested to fit a bigger master cylinder. A massive, massive thank you to devere who told me that a MC out of a VW Transporter T4 would fit!

Parts you will need:

- VW Transporter T4 25.3mm MC (http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Master-Cylinder-With-ABS-ITT-Calipers-T4-01-96-03-7D0611019B_act_shop.product_pID_143250031.htm
- Copper (or material of your choice) brake pipe
- 2x male pipe connectors to go into the MC
- A spare fluid reservoir

Couple of things that should be pointed out before beginning is that I have already run replacement brake pipes throughout the car and that I used the spare car to line everything up before fitting to the actual race car.

First thing to do is to put your spare reservoir on to the new MC while the male pipe connectors are in place. You should be able to see that the pipes will foul on the reservoir. To fix this I simply used a heat gun on its lowest setting and gently applied heat and pressure to the required area. Be careful not to heat too much or you risk putting a hole in the reservoir, which would be a ballache! Sadly, no pictures of this step.

With that done I cut 2x 15(ish) centimetre lengths of brake pipe and flared one of the ends to go in to the MC. Using a pipe bending tool I put a 90 degree bend in the pipe to try and clear the reservoir. It wasn't quite enough but a good start none the less.



Then bend the pipes a little more by hand to make sure you get the right clearance. Might be worth putting the reservoir on while doing it to make sure there's enough clearance. Something like this:





I then put a split pin through the MC and reservoir to hold it together. Could really pull the pin apart but should provide enough stability to hold it in place:



Now I bent the pipes around more so that they ran underneath the MC and out to the direction they would have come from on the old MC. I also flared the other ends with another male connector on and connected it to a male-male joiner. The idea being the joiner should connect in to the old pipes directly requiring no additional work.

At this point we started to work on the car. Firstly I used an oil extractor tool to pull as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir. Removing the MC itself is easy, just undo the brake pipes and the 2 13mm nuts that hold it to the servo and lift it out. Watch out for leaking fluid down the engine bay from the servo / end of MC!

Fitting the new one back in is just as easy. Maneuver the MC into the servo and tighten the nuts up to hold it in place. Then you can connect up the old pipes to the joiner and tighten everything down. Easy peasy! Might need to bend the pipes around a little but nothing complicated.

Everything fitted:



Bleed your brakes and off you go Smile Like I said, nothing too complicated and seemed to help a lot on slow speed tests.

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 25th May 2014 at 00:16
eddy_gti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Durham

Registered: 20 Oct 2008

Posts: 8,716

Status: Offline

Post #2
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Master-Cylinder-With-ABS-ITT-Calipers-T4-01-96-03-7D0611019B_act_shop.product_pID_143250031.htm

You need to remove the close bracket thing for link to work. ) Big grin

Very interesting. Will be interesting to see how you get on next time on track. Good write up Thumbs up

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Posted 25th May 2014 at 00:14
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

Status: Offline

Post #3
Cheers Chris, sorted now Smile

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 25th May 2014 at 00:17
craig903

Regular

Location: whitstable

Registered: 08 Jul 2013

Posts: 273

Status: Offline

Post #4
What size unions are they going into the master cylinder, I have one and apparently they are m10 x 1, mine looks at least m12

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208 GTI Owner
Turbo'd '6 project - work in progress
Posted 6th Nov 2017 at 20:00
RallyeRed

Regular

Location: Northwich

Registered: 03 May 2016

Posts: 353

Status: Offline

Post #5
Yeah they're definitely M12. Mine weren't M10 despite being advertised as such from the retailer I bought mine from. Really messed me about when I was doing mine as I was using banjo bolts etc and had everything ready to go on.
Posted 6th Nov 2017 at 20:40
craig903

Regular

Location: whitstable

Registered: 08 Jul 2013

Posts: 273

Status: Offline

Post #6
Its messed me about already haha, been searching for m10 ones as i thaught mine must be imperial or something.

________________________________________

208 GTI Owner
Turbo'd '6 project - work in progress
Posted 6th Nov 2017 at 21:29
russbez

Seasoned Pro

Location: Inverness-Shire

Registered: 19 Dec 2005

Posts: 7,456

Status: Offline

Post #7
bump

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TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYE

My Rallye project thread
Posted 22nd Apr 2021 at 16:57
turboblack

Junior User

Location: San Lorenzo Isontino

Registered: 04 Mar 2010

Posts: 83

Status: Offline

Post #8
How you manage the different orientation of the brake pump holes? Rotate the servo or mount the pump inclined?

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306cab 2.0 16v:
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45mm Jenvey
Piper 285H
6 Gearbox + Quaife LSD
406 Brembo
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Posted 23rd Jul 2022 at 16:18

Adrian Flux
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