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Author Subject: expansion tank plumbing
devere

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Post #1
Ive got this on the 205 forum as well to try and get a definite answer, but curious for any advice from anywhere,e so thought id put it here too.

Can anyone confirm that by plumbing an expansion tank into the cooling system, and T'ing it in between the thermostat housing and the rear main water pipe would work please? As per the following pictures..





As you can see, im not running a heater, so no matrix pipes. Basically, is it going to work going into it there? No problems with it being onto the main pipe attaching to the water outlet on the back of the block?
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 20:22
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cully

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Post #2
i thought the cooling would be compromised if the matrix was bypassed?
my understanding was it needed the matrix to restrict the flow
forcing the water circulation through the block and not bypassing the head leaving hot spots

i may be wrong though
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 13:52
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devere

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Post #3
I think plenty of people have done away with the heater. This car never had it in its previous incarnation. Never heard of any issues arising to be honest...
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 14:13
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pete_rallye

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Post #4
Mines tee'd into a -10 fitting welded onto the top of the alloy bit on the back of the block. As long as you're on the return side of the water pump it should clear the air out fine, but just make sure all the air does get out. Have you got a breather from the top of the rad coming back to the expansion tank? You'll need one otherwise the air will never get out of the rad.

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Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 14:15
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devere

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Post #5
I am using 205 GTi6 hose kits. And a 205 rad. So will have the long pipe from the top of the rad back to the top of the expansion tank as per normal 205 fitment.

It's just making sure the expansion tank is in the right place.

Without sounding ding stupid, am I right in thinking the water pump goes to the bottom of the rad, rather than up to the thermo housing...? If so, then my tank will be on the return side so to speak...
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 14:29
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pete_rallye

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Post #6
The water pump pumps through the block/head to the thermostat housing, where depending on whether the thermostat is open or not it, the coolant goes through the rad back to the alloy bit on the back of the block, or down the pipe at the back of the block to the alloy bit where it goes back to the pump.

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 17:54
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allanallen

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Post #7
I've got the one from the back of the thermostat housing blocked up, as well as the other matrix pipe. Never had any issues whatsoever. I did add in a small take off on the top of the thermostat housing thats piped back to the top of the expansion tank, this allows it to self bleed like mi16s do Wink

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Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 18:20
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devere

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Post #8
pete_rallye wrote:
The water pump pumps through the block/head to the thermostat housing, where depending on whether the thermostat is open or not it, the coolant goes through the rad back to the alloy bit on the back of the block, or down the pipe at the back of the block to the alloy bit where it goes back to the pump.


So on that basis, being T'd in between the pipe down the back of the block and the thermostat housing, it should have any untoward pressure pushing back up to the expansion tank... and should be fine...?

I assume it looked clear from the pictures where it was joined in to?
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 18:33
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devere

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Post #9
allanallen wrote:
I've got the one from the back of the thermostat housing blocked up, as well as the other matrix pipe. Never had any issues whatsoever. I did add in a small take off on the top of the thermostat housing thats piped back to the top of the expansion tank, this allows it to self bleed like mi16s do Wink


So how exactly is your set out? Do you run the standard metal rear pipe? Then have the expansion tank just feed into the end of the metal water pipe? SO the only connection between the metal pipe and the thermostat housing is the smaller pipe that T's off the metal pipe? Hope that made sense..

Then the second outlet on the gti6 thermostat housing you have just blocked off?
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 19:17
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clen666

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Post #10
So if, for example, you removed heater matrix and removed metal pipe.
Blocked both outlets on thermostat housing and blocked outlet on block that metal pipe was connected to, then when thermostat is closed there would be nowhere for the coolant to flow to after circulating head and block?

Sorry if that's a mouthful and hard to understand!

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Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 20:07
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devere

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Post #11
clen666 wrote:
So if, for example, you removed heater matrix and removed metal pipe.
Blocked both outlets on thermostat housing and blocked outlet on block that metal pipe was connected to, then when thermostat is closed there would be nowhere for the coolant to flow to after circulating head and block?

Sorry if that's a mouthful and hard to understand!


That aimed towards me or allen?
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 20:24
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clen666

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Post #12
Erm, anyone who can clarify.

It was supposed to be a question but its a bit long winded

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Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 21:32
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devere

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Post #13
Ah I see!

The metal pipe is needed for that circulation back round the block.

You would be better to block on of the thermostat outlets and just connect the other to the metal pipe to the bottom of the block.
Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 21:53
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clen666

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Post #14
Yeah I thought that was the case, thanks.

I'll be looking to connect up a header tank too so will keep an eye on this

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Posted 25th Jan 2014 at 22:12
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allanallen

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Post #15
Thinking about it my steal pipe is blocked now you mention it! I'll take pics in the morning! Razz

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Posted 26th Jan 2014 at 00:06
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pete_rallye

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Post #16
You can block the steel pipe off but you need to remove the thermostat so there is a constant flow of coolant, I have also seen the thermostat drilled with several small holes to allow coolant to pass even when it is closed. If the thermostat is fitted the water flows either through the rad (if the thermostat is open), or around the back of the block (if the thermostat is closed). As long as either the steel pipe at the back of the block is fitted, or the thermostat is removed it is perfectly ok to remove the heater matrix.

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 26th Jan 2014 at 00:16
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allanallen

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Post #17
Right just had a look, I was talking s**t! Razz

My metal water hose is in place but the bit that normally goes to the matrix is blocked. The outlet above it on the back of the t-stat is piped to the bottom of the expansion tank. Then as I say I've added in another hose tail which is piped back to the top of the expansion tank so it self bleeds.



So I'd say what you're proposing in your first post is pretty much exactly what I've got although you've got a nice baker pipe and mines using more of the standard stuff.

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Posted 26th Jan 2014 at 08:21
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devere

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Post #18
Ah that's cool.

So even tho you are using both outs on the thermostat, and I am only using a single outlet, it's basically the same principal....

So even tho water will flow past the end of where my tank is joined in, the water pump will suck the water towards the bottom of the block rather than anything get pushed towards the tank in anyway. Well, as long as the tank is the highest point as it should be!
Posted 26th Jan 2014 at 10:11
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allanallen

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Post #19
Yep same principal, just yours is neater!

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Posted 26th Jan 2014 at 23:37
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devere

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Post #20
Fair enough. I shall get it sorted then! I knew the xsi thermostat housing would come in handy!
Posted 26th Jan 2014 at 23:46
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