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Author Subject: Rev counter fault
RetroPug

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Post #1
On my Ph.1 Gti-6 the rev counter broke on the way home when I bought it a couple of months ago. It isn't completely dead, it reads under the actual revs. For example, at idle it reads 0rpm and at max revs it reads 3k or 4k rpm. The oil pressure gauge on the rev counter also does not work, but it does work as the oil level before startup.

In addition to this, the remote central locking doesn't work (but it does work with the key). I'm led to believe that both of these can be caused by the loom down by the rad but it doesn't appear to be damaged, and I've reconnected all the plugs and WD40'd them etc. with no change. It could well be damaged but I can't see the damage.

When changing the icv a week or so ago, the rev counter did briefly work, I assume due to pulling the engine loom about, but it went away again very quickly.

The next thing I'm going to do is try cleaning up a few of the earths to see if this makes a difference.

I'd welcome any other suggestions that people may have. The only other electrical fault in the car is the electric wing mirrors not working if that also aids in diagnosing the problem.

Can anyone tell me which fuses might be involved if there's nothing else to try? Going to try cleaning up earths as well.

Thanks!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 23rd Jan 2014 at 12:15
jimmyhackers

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Post #2
i had a completely dead rev counter on my phase 3 xsi

was the loom on the passenger side under the rad......(red wire broken) youve said it isnt this....so.....make extra super sure. its pretty easy to bump this area off curbs.

my wire wasnt a complete split aswell, was just the sheathing split and the copper wire inside had corroded completly away :S

wd40ing stuff isnt the best solution for poor electrical contacts. use a tiny bit of emery paper on both side if said contact isnt shiny already. time consuming but once its done its good for the next 10 years

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Posted 23rd Jan 2014 at 17:11
RetroPug

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Post #3
The contacts in the plug looked brand new to be honest!

The sheathing on it was intact and when I opened it the tightly-wrapped heat-shrink/tape stuff wasn't damaged at all. I supposed it could have snapped or corroded inside it by being pulled or something but without completely unwrapping all of the insulation I won't know.

Removed the paint under and cleaned up the earth in the driver's footwell, and put my good bosch S4 in. No difference. When I get a chance I'll do some of the ones that tend to cause the most issues in the engine bay and have another look.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 23rd Jan 2014 at 17:18
RetroPug

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Post #4
Will hopefully be giving this another going over soonish...is there anything else to check while I'm there?
Does the connection to the back of the instrument cluster tend to become loose?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 4th Feb 2014 at 14:25
bigbadbowen

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Post #5
Get hold of another cluster to eliminate this as the problem ?
Posted 4th Feb 2014 at 14:35
RetroPug

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Post #6
bigbadbowen wrote:
Get hold of another cluster to eliminate this as the problem ?

It's the one on 53k that you put back on the road so would rather keep the low mileage clocks.

From changing the ICV it briefly came back which suggests that it is a loose or bad connection somewhere....and remote central locking also does not work which suggests it may be that loom?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 4th Feb 2014 at 15:38
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #7
I would try another cluster first. I know you said you want to keep the low mileage one, but you could at least try another to rule it out. Yes

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Posted 5th Feb 2014 at 00:14
RetroPug

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Post #8
Thing is I'm convinced it is just a poor connection somewhere as it did briefly come back!
Will consider my options...I barely drive the car currently and it's always too rainy for me to bother looking it over.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 9th Feb 2014 at 10:10
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #9
Have you tried removing the cluster and then plugging it back in again?

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Peugeot 306 GTi-6
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Posted 9th Feb 2014 at 11:52
jimmyhackers

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Post #10
i second stan....

ive removed my custer a few times and remounted it only to find one of the sodding connectings wasnt working. wiggle the connectors

if in a pickle give it a wiggle......pretty gay mantra but tbh, wigglingy almost anything can solve nearly everything

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Posted 10th Feb 2014 at 18:32
Cjwatson27

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Post #11
Apart from a broken leg LOL

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Posted 10th Feb 2014 at 21:07
RetroPug

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Post #12
stan_306gti6 wrote:
Have you tried removing the cluster and then plugging it back in again?

jimmyhackers wrote:
i second stan....

ive removed my custer a few times and remounted it only to find one of the sodding connectings wasnt working. wiggle the connectors

if in a pickle give it a wiggle......pretty gay mantra but tbh, wigglingy almost anything can solve nearly everything

That was going to be one of the things I tried before buying a new cluster. LOL
I'm convinced it's just a poor connection somewhere.
Potentially the gearbox earth as well.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 10th Feb 2014 at 22:43
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #13
Give it a go then and report back. Thumbs up

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 11th Feb 2014 at 07:05
RetroPug

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Post #14
Had a thought actually...the key may just not be synced with the remote central locking as the car was sat off road for years so that could be unrelated to the rev-counter.

Will try these things tomorrow!

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 11th Feb 2014 at 14:24
RetroPug

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Post #15
Well, finally got around to getting some precision star point screwdrivers that fit in the holes and got this all off. Replugged in the plugs etc. Problem is still the same, oil level works but not pressure, and rev counter displays zero on idle and does increase but reads way under.

I'm still thinking it's a poor connection in the loom somewhere...

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 23rd Feb 2014 at 14:49
dangti6

aka JKshooter

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Post #16
I've an instrument cluster should you want to purchase to swap and see if that is the culprit.

Can't say I've ever tried to dismantle a 306 unit to swap bits over, but it may be possible to swap just the rev counter section once disassembled.

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  • Posted 23rd Feb 2014 at 15:15
    RetroPug

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    Post #17
    Thanks for the offer.
    Given the symptoms I'm going to attempt to check over the loom again when I've got the time but will consider it.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 23rd Feb 2014 at 15:41
    Cjwatson27

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    Post #18
    I have a phase 1 loom if you need one

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    Old pugs don't die they just get faster
    Posted 23rd Feb 2014 at 15:46
    RetroPug

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    Post #19
    Thanks, that might be good as a last resort, will only be 1-2 broken wires so hopefully they can be found!
    Could I ask that you don't throw it away for a bit?

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 23rd Feb 2014 at 18:22
    Cjwatson27

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    Post #20
    14 years of owning french cars ive learnt its handy to have a spare wiring loom or 2 lol

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    Old pugs don't die they just get faster
    Posted 26th Feb 2014 at 17:35
    RetroPug

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    Post #21
    Just to bump this rather than creating a new thread: am I correct in assuming that the brown crank sensor on the gearbox is what measures engine speed?

    I'm swapping engine looms, and the bumper is coming off to inspect the loom along that, but I'll also give the sensor some attention. I believe it's just bolted down, is it a case of just making sure it is correctly bolted down or can it be fitted with too large a gap? My rev counter is reading revs just it is reading very low so not getting a strong enough signal I'm guessing.

    If all of this fails I'll get a new sensor.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 20th Dec 2015 at 13:21
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #22
    theyre a fixed distance from the flywheel, if the engine runs its working fine, rev counter signal comes from the ecu not thessensor, so its either the instrumemts, wiring or one of the 3-4 plugs between ecu and rev counter.

    have you tried a different cluster?

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    Posted 20th Dec 2015 at 14:08
    RetroPug

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    Post #23
    I haven't tried a different cluster but I've unplugged it and reconnected it several times.
    I will try a different one if none of this works. It seems like quite a lot of people have managed to find broken wires along the bottom of the bumper and have fixed it that way.

    I think it's wiring as when changing the ICV ages ago it briefly came back as my friend was moving the loom around a bit.

    Thanks for clarifying that.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 20th Dec 2015 at 15:37
    welshpug!

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    Post #24
    yeah the wiring under the crossmember can be quite vulnerable

    no idea why Peugeot decided to send it that way, the zx is half the length as it goes across the scuttle and under the wing to the back of the main fusebox

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    need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 20th Dec 2015 at 15:58
    RetroPug

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    Post #25
    It's not brilliant. It's all protected by fabric just wrapped around it as well.

    It appears that someone has had a play with it before, as one section was covered in tape and all of the wires are covered in heatshrink which I'm going to assume isn't standard.

    I couldn't see which was broken but it was dark so I'll have another look tomorrow. From memory the rev counter wire is supposed to be red but there are wires of different colours connected to eachother etc.

    I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for that loom yet, only the engine one. Any ideas where I might be able to get one?

    As above though, it is reading revs, just massively under reading, so at idle it reads 0 and near the redline it is at abou 4000rpm or so, so a totally broken wire is unlikely.

    Not the biggest fan of electric wizardry!

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 20th Dec 2015 at 19:11

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