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Author Subject: Welding experts advice needed
pugjim

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Location: Sheffield

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Post #1
Got a car with a hairline crack about 1cm long in the sump. Question is could it be welded with the sump in situ? Dunno
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:30
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #2
probably not very well as you'd want it all cleaned up properly first, including the inside at a guess

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:32
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #3
would never try and do it in situ, is it alloy or steel?

the oil will act as a massive heatsink making a bas**rd to weld if its alloy, not so much for steel but it will contaminate the weld.

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:38
pugjim

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Post #4
problem is its on a lease car what is going back in about 6 months so the person who is leasing it doesnt want to spend loads fixing it. Was just wondering if there was a quick fix/bodge that would last 6 months Smile
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:42
dcc

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Post #5
Dont see any reason why not! clean up the surface your welding, its only a sump so as long as you weld it well on the clean side I think it will be fine. I certainly wouldnt have any issue with welding something that way.

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:43
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #6
and therein lies the problem Razz

trying to get oil out of a crack in a container that is full of oil Laugh my ass off


is it p**sing out? what is the sump made from?

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:49
pugjim

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Post #7
its just weeping out, very slightly, its an alloy sump. The company who are leasing the car have tig welding equipment.
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:52
ben306

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Post #8
Chemical metal putty worked on my old company car for 9 months before I left the company. (I'd been playing real life Colin McCrea Rally so couldn't send it in to be fixed)

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 15:53
roland rat

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Post #9
dcc wrote:
Dont see any reason why not! clean up the surface your welding, its only a sump so as long as you weld it well on the clean side I think it will be fine. I certainly wouldnt have any issue with welding something that way.


your a pikey Yes
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 16:04
roland rat

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Post #10
pugjim wrote:
problem is its on a lease car what is going back in about 6 months so the person who is leasing it doesnt want to spend loads fixing it. Was just wondering if there was a quick fix/bodge that would last 6 months Smile


A big Disney plaster should sort it out Thumbs up
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 16:05
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

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Post #11
i'd personally just zip tie a huge sponge to the bottom to soak the oil up with a plastic tray underneath and just leave it till the day you give it back, that's not an MOT fail either cos we've done it before

^ not a lie

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 16:08
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #12
its not going to cost them out but a tube of goop if they have tig equipment, and given they have tig equipment, surely they'd have someone who knows how to weld and the pitfalls of welding up something full of oil? LOL

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 16:33
coskev

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Post #13
Taking a sump off isn't a big job on most cars.

Otherwise drop the oil and weld it in situ.

Pretty sure with a crack in alloy you should drill a hole at both ends of the crack?

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 16:47
phillipm

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Post #14
It'd need to be clean to tig, never going to happen with it on the car, you could try chemical metal and a patch but that's not exactly discrete Big grin

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 16:49
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #15
coskev wrote:
Pretty sure with a crack in alloy you should drill a hole at both ends of the crack?


any crack really, its the same reasoning behind stitch welding when "seam welding" a shell for race or rally cars, weld and inch leave and inch and so on, as a crank in a continuous weld will just follow the weld, a rack in a weld an inch long will only be an inch long.

shouldnt need to on a sump though, its not usually a stressed member so just vee-ing the crack out and filling it back up with weld would be sufficient.

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 17:00
jimmyhackers

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Post #16
if you burn through with it in situ you could have a lovely fire on your hands.

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 17:11
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #17
Clean it up and sikafkex a square ally plate over the crack, if you do a neat job it won't look too obvious. If you want a reliable weld repair, it will need to come off, be degreased and then welded. You will not get a result trying to weld it in position, the oil in the crack will ruin the weld and cause you even more problems.

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 18:54
buzzbrightyear

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Post #18
all the suggestions and nobody's mentioned draining the oil first, get it hot first then leave it to drain for a day or 2.

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 17:56
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #19
buzzbrightyear wrote:
all the suggestions and nobody's mentioned draining the oil first, get it hot first then leave it to drain for a day or 2.


guess you didn't read any of mine or Davey's posts then LOL

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 18:38
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #20
buzzbrightyear wrote:
all the suggestions and nobody's mentioned draining the oil first, get it hot first then leave it to drain for a day or 2.


That won't work, buy a tig off me and try it for yourself to find out why Smile

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 18:54
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #21
When the bendy busses first came to our neck of the woods they smashed two £1,500 sumps a week for 2 months on the speed bumps around Millbrook. When they found out how much replacements were I got a few to repair. So I have a little experience in this area, vee-out the crack, get the casting vapour blasted, if you can find the ends of the cracks drill them out or run a tee weld across each end to try and stop them spreading further, I often heat the casting to 300 degrees for a few hours to get the oil impregnated in the ally to vapourise, and then crack on with the welding. 100% success with this method, people ask "can't you just put a blob of weld on it?" the answer is always no.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 19:00
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #22
daveyboy wrote:
When the bendy busses first came to our neck of the woods they smashed two £1,500 sumps a week for 2 months on the speed bumps around Millbrook. When they found out how much replacements were I got a few to repair. So I have a little experience in this area, vee-out the crack, get the casting vapour blasted, if you can find the ends of the cracks drill them out or run a tee weld across each end to try and stop them spreading further, I often heat the casting to 300 degrees for a few hours to get the oil impregnated in the ally to vapourise, and then crack on with the welding. 100% success with this method, people ask "can't you just put a blob of weld on it?" the answer is always no.


This is the best advice. Yes

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Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 19:05
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #23
How much is weeping?

Tesco value oil added when required FTW.

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  • Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 19:08
    clen666

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    Post #24
    daveyboy wrote:
    buzzbrightyear wrote:
    all the suggestions and nobody's mentioned draining the oil first, get it hot first then leave it to drain for a day or 2.


    That won't work, buy a tig off me and try it for yourself to find out why Smile


    Jim, have you seen my post in the welders thread? Don't want to take this thread off topic too much, but I was asking about those r-tech welders

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    Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 19:59
    pugjim

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    Post #25
    Heres a picture of the crack, you can just see the drip. Since the engine has cooled its not leaked a drop.

    Posted 29th Jul 2013 at 20:59

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