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Author Subject: Best oil cooler for a 50/50 track/road gti6?
owain

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Post #26
Not intentionally, but there's not one there now so either it never had one or I got carried away on a bumpy road.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:47
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #27
What make is your thermostatic plate? Mocal?

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:49
owain

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Post #28
Yup.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:49
daveyboy

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Post #29
Wierd, mine didn't cool enough on my LB6, it still showed regularly 100 degrees even when not being driven hard. Was summer rather than winter mind and that's with no undertray as well. But conversely I had no overcooling issues with my Rallye on ITBs with a 13 row cooler with no thermostat.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:54
owain

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Post #30
It's as if a supercharger would somehow make the engine hotter Hmm

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:55
daveyboy

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Post #31
Yea yeah, it doesn't really make much deference when driven off boost pootling around.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:56
owain

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Post #32
"Off boost" on a supercharger? I know what you mean though, but on a n/a car it's worth keeping an eye on.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 20:58
daveyboy

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Post #33
When the revs are low the boost guage reads a vacuum, so yeah, they could be driven off boost if you weren't going for it. I imagine the extra restriction to the radiator from the FMIC made a things a bit hotter under the bonnet than they would normally be.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 21:02
pete_rallye

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Post #34
I'm fairly certain the thermostatic sandwich plates are open to both the cooler and for direct flow to the engine under normal oil temps, and then they close the direct flow to the engine if the oil gets too hot, forcing all the oil around the cooler. If you fit a gate valve or similar you would have to be extremely careful that the oil didn't get too hot, otherwise if the thermostat cuts off the direct flow to the engine, and you've isolated the cooler, you'll get no flow at all and knacker you're engine. You'd be better off piping in a bypass pipe that can be isolated in warmer conditions, or just insulating you're oil cooler with polystyrene or something through the colder months.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 22:51
owain

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Post #35
My solution is more high tech than that, I have a piece of cardboard I wedge in front of the cooler.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 23:15
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #36
owain wrote:
My solution is more high tech than that, I have a piece of cardboard I wedge in front of the cooler.


How effective is that then? I assume it is pretty good? Have you mounted it infront of the radiator, if so does the cardboard inhibit air flow to the radiator?

Now I come to think of it though, how do cars that have oil coolers fitted as standard not have these issues? Is it as they obviously run hotter, but since most people don't drive cars like they are meant to, does this mean that there are a load of cars on the road that are over-cooled?

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 23:24
owain

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Post #37
It works perfectly for me, the car gets up to 60 or so on the gauge on the way to trackdays on cold days, then once it's off I can still get the temp up to 110 or so on track, again on a cold day.

Most n/a cars don't have oil coolers, or only have tiny ones which don't make much difference. Many cars with factory coolers have them because they have turbos, which get far hotter than n/a oil does.

It's probably worth pointing out at this point that I don't have any idea what I'm talking about and you should base no decisions on anything I say. All I know is what my car does.

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Posted 24th Mar 2013 at 23:34
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #38
I think the attitude is to do something and then deal with the s**theap that I have ended up in once I am in it. It's going to be used on the track mainly, with only about 1-2k per year on the road anyways, mostly driving to and from the track since I've got my van for day to day driving. Let's bolt the bas**rd on and see what the hell happens from there, I think I would be better off over cooling on the way to the track than boiling it on the track?

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 09:52
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #39
Definitely.

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Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 09:55
owain

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Post #40
Yes

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 09:55
RetroPug

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Post #41
owain wrote:
Phase 2 onwards did, Phase 1 was oil pressure instead IIRC. I have a phase 1, so can't comment on the accuracy as I don't have one.

I can comment on the accuracy of this.
It is accurate, well, apart from when you said you had a Ph.1. Thumbs up

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 09:58
owain

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Post #42
RetroPug wrote:
owain wrote:
Phase 2 onwards did, Phase 1 was oil pressure instead IIRC. I have a phase 1, so can't comment on the accuracy as I don't have one.

I can comment on the accuracy of this.
It is accurate. Thumbs up


Can anyone verify the accuracy of this verification?

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 09:59
braymond

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Post #43
For the OP - I got my 16row cooler from this guy. Was cheapest I found at the time, but admittedly that was some years ago now.

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:05
jamiek_uk2000

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Post #44
owain wrote:
RetroPug wrote:
owain wrote:
Phase 2 onwards did, Phase 1 was oil pressure instead IIRC. I have a phase 1, so can't comment on the accuracy as I don't have one.

I can comment on the accuracy of this.
It is accurate. Thumbs up


Can anyone verify the accuracy of this verification?


I can verify that this verification of accuracy requires further verification

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:06
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #45
The oil temp gauge on the 6 is very accurate indeed. Yes

As for cooling, I again really can't see a problem with over-cooling as long as you have a thermostatic plate.

Owain, my car sits at 80c all the time when driving, whether it be fast or slow, the most I've seen it go up to was 105c on the track, although I'm running a 19 row cooler.

The plate won't allow oil to flow to the cooler if it's under 80c and constantly opens and shuts to keep that temp consistant. I know what you're saying regarding the oil becoming too cool once it does go through the cooler, bit mine does not do this and neither does any other 6 I've seen with an oil cooler fitted. Therefore, I agree with Jim, I think yours must be stuck open if you have to block it to get around the problem. Yes

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:35
owain

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Post #46
Okay, I must be making it up then. I can't even be bothered to make a joke about you having not driven your car in years anymore.

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:39
rikky 🦔

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Post #47
i had a 19 row mocal and thermostatic plate on my track car. even giving it heavy beans (road) it rarely got warm at all. it would be fine on track, but not brilliant on road. this is why i got a digtal LCD gauge made up for oil temperature to basically confirm it was keeping cool

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Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:48
dangti6

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Post #48
owain wrote:
Okay, I must be making it up then. I can't even be bothered to make a joke about you having not driven your car in years anymore.


Mine will probably never make it on to the car.

I've only seen the car once in 6 months. I just like to buy stuff for it. The fitting is the easy bit.

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  • Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:54
    stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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    Post #49
    owain wrote:
    Okay, I must be making it up then. I can't even be bothered to make a joke about you having not driven your car in years anymore.


    ^^^Time of the month mate? Dunno

    No need to get wound up, I'm just explaining how what you say you're experiencing isn't how the system should operate and therefore there is a deeper issue that exists here.

    We are trying to help diagnose what exactly could be the issue, no need to be so aggressive.

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    Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:56
    owain

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    Post #50
    LOL Coming from Stan

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    Posted 26th Mar 2013 at 10:57

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