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Author Subject: Which bit to hit with a hammer, if any?
RetroPug

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Post #1
Basically, a month and a half ago, some stupid lady looking at her sat nav swerved across the road into me! I do have post-accident pictures but I can't find them on my computer at the moment. My gf might have them actually.

I was hit on the front right corner/driver's side. Other than damage to the bodywork, the only other problem was that the washer bottle was pushing against the back of the arch liner and causing it to interfere with the wheel, and once the arch liner was gone the washer bottle was touching the wheel. As far as I can see, the chassis is all fine and the car's still structurally sound, but obviously this shouldn't be happening, so I thought the brackets may be bent but they appear to all be fine as well. I've taken everything off and compared it to the other side but they're not quite the same anyway.

I'd really appreciate it if anyone could play a bit of spot the difference between the following pictures and what it should look like and tell me if they notice anything that's the wrong shape or isn't right. The white bumper mount is at a funny angle but this may be normal, as the bracket it is mounted on seems intact and unmarked etc. Thanks in advance for looking!



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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 16:11
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #2
slam panel needs bending back out towards you

bumper adjuster is pointing down and needs bending upwards (the chassis is bent and the mount will be fubar)

inside chassis at the front of the box section looks bent inwards towards the driver wheel

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
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Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 16:19
rikky 🦔

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Post #3
you need to take the slam panel off and probably get a porter power in there, that's similar damage to my gti6 was when a foreigner without a license hit me. if you went through insurance that'd be a Cat C gonner. after you've done all that, you'll probably end up with a bit of a shut-gap between bonnet / wing etc. i messed about trying to get mine right and it was never bang on again

you could do it with a few big universal boshing tools like a lump hammer and some inch thick flat metal blocks but it'll not be perfect. you'd be surprised how little it takes to really cause a problem with the shell

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 16:20
RetroPug

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Post #4
Thank you for the response.

The gap between the bonnet and wing looks fine, the wing is bowed outwards and needs replacing though. Having compared pictures of normal bumper mounts, mine is definitely pointing downwards, but the metal bracket really does look untouched and in the right place, which is weird. I suppose the gap it goes through could be displaced as well.

Are you sure about the slam panel? Which picture does it appear to be bent inwards in?

I'm not sure which part you're describing as the box section, sorry! Is it the part of the chassis down to the left of the fan in picture one?

I'd really, really like to get this back on the road in the great condition it was in before the accident as it was such a nice example, but I'm beginning to wonder how feasible that might be.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 16:54
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #5
the lower section the bumper bolts so should be flat, look at the other side, its a mirror image bar what's hidden behind.

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Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 17:01
RetroPug

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Post #6
welshpug! wrote:
the lower section the bumper bolts so should be flat, look at the other side, its a mirror image bar what's hidden behind.

Okay, so the slam panel should be symmetrical. I won't have a chance to look in the light tomorrow, but will do so on wednesday hopefully. A replacement slam panel would rectify this, but is there a chance the other damage is irreparable?

Looking at the picture again, that's probably why it was so bloody difficult to get behind it and get the nuts off on that side.

Thanks for your time.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
Posted 25th Feb 2013 at 23:58
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #7
Nothing is irrepairable Big grin

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Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 00:17
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #8
When I quickly read the first paragraph I did wonder if you were seeking advice on how to replicate damage to increase the effect of an insurance claim.



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  • Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 00:20
    RetroPug

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    Post #9
    dangti6 wrote:
    When I quickly read the first paragraph I did wonder if you were seeking advice on how to replicate damage to increase the effect of an insurance claim.

    Haha, no, I've already got my insurance payout, I'd love to get the car back on the road though.

    welshpug! wrote:
    Nothing is irrepairable Big grin

    Well true, but I'm wondering how difficult it is likely to be, what tools I might need, and whether or not I could realistically do it to a good enough standard on my driveway.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 00:28
    ryangti6

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    Post #10
    It depends what you call a good enough standard really...

    If your happy with it being back all safe and hardly noticable then it will be easy enough, new slam panel and wing then use these as a guide to what needs bending, straightening etc to make them fit as good as you can.

    It doesn't look too bad to be honest so I see no reason you won't be able to do a good job on it.

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    Ryan
    Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 16:54
    RetroPug

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    Post #11
    ryangti6 wrote:
    It depends what you call a good enough standard really...

    If your happy with it being back all safe and hardly noticable then it will be easy enough, new slam panel and wing then use these as a guide to what needs bending, straightening etc to make them fit as good as you can.

    It doesn't look too bad to be honest so I see no reason you won't be able to do a good job on it.


    Safe and not noticable unless you really look for it and you know it is there is definitely okay. I just want to get it through an MOT and to drive it again. I don't want to sell it any time soon at all.

    The slam panel is coming off tomorrow so that I can have a good look behind it, and I'll likely be picking up another one on friday. I haven't sourced a wing yet, there are some on ebay but it is difficult to be sure of their condition. I will have one soon.

    Is, like rikky said, the best method to use metal blocks and to hit them with a hammer? Are there any other techniques that would also come in handy? All I've got at the moment is a decent-sized rubber mallet, but I'm definitely willing to purchase the necessary tools for the job.

    Thanks for the response, +1 for everyone who has replied so far.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 26th Feb 2013 at 23:32
    stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

    Location: Kent

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    Post #12
    Yep, metal blocks to keep the area you're bashing even and a good size lump hammer, around the 4lb mark maybe slightly more.

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    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 06:54
    RetroPug

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    Post #13
    Okay, I feel like a complete tool (pun intended) for asking this, but where would I get my hands on metal blocks?

    I don't really know anybody in the trade who could give me any spares or offcuts other than my housemate, but from having worked where he works in the past they tend to hang on to little bits like that if they're useful it seems.

    Thanks a lot for the responses, I really appreciate it.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 09:07
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

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    Post #14
    wood will do the job.

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    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 09:33
    daveyboy

    aka Jim Davey

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    Post #15
    Buy a cheap panel beating dolly set off the bay, gumtree or amazon etc.

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    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 09:36
    RetroPug

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    Post #16
    Okay, I've done that, thanks.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 10:31
    RetroPug

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    Post #17
    I have got the slam panel and the wing off, waiting on the hammer & dolly kit.

    I tried to jumpstart the car but it wouldn't start. I can't decide whether it is the immobiliser, the battery being shagged or the fact that my housemate's battery isn't good enough. Everything comes on, and the battery holds a tiny bit of charge after the jump leads are disconnected, but the engine only turns a half crank then stops, which sounds like the immobiliser to me.

    I've tried disconnecting the battery and having the ignition on, the reconnecting it, and locking and then unlocking the central locking. I'm sure it's just something silly I'm doing as I can't find the manual, had a look through the uploaded one in the FAQ and couldn't find anything.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 17:17
    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

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    Post #18
    thats a fuggered battery, if it was the immobiliser it would just spin and spin.

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    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 17:30
    RetroPug

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    Post #19
    Ah yeah, immobiliser prevents fuel injection, thanks.
    I'll try to get it started some other way soon.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 27th Feb 2013 at 21:38
    rich306

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    Post #20
    RetroPug wrote:
    Ah yeah, immobiliser prevents fuel injection, thanks.
    I'll try to get it started some other way soon.


    Just one on this, when my car was hit the fuel cut off switch activated preventing another start up until i pressed the switch to turn it back on again. - Located top right of engine bay behind the battery on the chassis.

    I've repaired similar damage on a Citroen ZX and i just knocked it all straight with a block of wood and a lump hammer.
    Get yourself a new slam panel and do yourself a favour; when the metal is all bent back the chances are that you will have bare metal showing where the paint has cracked, just paint over this so that it protects the chassis from future rust.

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    Posted 28th Feb 2013 at 09:18
    RetroPug

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    Post #21
    rich306 wrote:
    RetroPug wrote:
    Ah yeah, immobiliser prevents fuel injection, thanks.
    I'll try to get it started some other way soon.


    Just one on this, when my car was hit the fuel cut off switch activated preventing another start up until i pressed the switch to turn it back on again. - Located top right of engine bay behind the battery on the chassis.

    I've repaired similar damage on a Citroen ZX and i just knocked it all straight with a block of wood and a lump hammer.
    Get yourself a new slam panel and do yourself a favour; when the metal is all bent back the chances are that you will have bare metal showing where the paint has cracked, just paint over this so that it protects the chassis from future rust.



    All good advice, thanks. I did think of the fuel cut off (big red thing, right?), but the engine will only turn half a crank so the starter motor isn't getting enough power basically.

    I'll paint any bare metal I find, there is also some cracking paint unrelated to the damage in that area that has obviously been there a while as there is a bit of rust underneath it so I'll coat any parts like that I find too. I've been giving all the brackets I take off a coat of hammerite too.

    I'm off to pick up another slam panel tomorrow. There's no point in trying to bend that back to shape when they're so common and I can use a straight one as a guide to get everything else in the right place rather than just guessing. The slam panel will get a coat of paint whilst it's off too.

    Thanks!

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 28th Feb 2013 at 21:06
    RetroPug

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    Post #22
    I'm going to get some Diablo Red paint in a rattle can, even if I'm just covering small bits of cracked paint, would it still be advisable to use a primer? I suppose I'll also wirebrush a couple of corroded bits as well so I might as well get a primer while I'm at it.

    The finish wouldn't have be cosmetically perfect, just not flaking off and of adequate quality so that it doesn't expose the metal again really.

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    61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread
    Posted 28th Feb 2013 at 23:39

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