displaying posts 1 to 13 of 13

Author Subject: Rear brakes
blandy

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Location: Bucks

Registered: 25 Feb 2007

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Post #1
Long story short my rear beam is knackered and upon removing today I cannot undo one single brake line as they are heavily corroded and the brake compensator (on right hand side of beam??) is also seized solid which is possibly why I can still turn one wheel when pressing the pedal?

Can I get new lines from pug or is it better to make new? If so what size are the fittings/pipe as can get hold of a flaring tool
Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 18:17
miles

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Location: Ringwood

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Post #2
Most are M10x1 male and female, the bias valve I think is M12x1 (Been a while)
But I would ditch the std set up now your there and get a single line to the back but would mean killing the ABS as well thou, use a adjustable valve then

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Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 19:11
coskev

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Post #3
As above, seeing as its a track car bin all the abs and make up new lines from mc to brakesThumbs up

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Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 19:37
blandy

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Post #4
is that good for mot though as still staying road legal for driving to and from track days at least for time being anyhow
Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 19:48
coskev

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Post #5
Be fine aslong as you remove ABS totally including warning light in dashYes

Save some weight and make it neater under the bonnet with more spaceThumbs up

If your keen you could strip all the related wiring/relays etc from your loom tooBig grin

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Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 21:27
blandy

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Post #6
Cool thanks will leave the wiring for bit as only just put dash back in after stripping a load of wiring last week
Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 21:57
armzsc6

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Location: Crowborough

Registered: 22 Mar 2008

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Post #7
You can change a beam without undoing any brake pipe connections at all. It's a bit of a fiddle but before i replaced my rear callipers due to broken nipples I had to do it last year. But teh if it's a track car then remove the lot and re-do with a valve Wink.

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Posted 17th Feb 2013 at 22:49
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

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Post #8
the flaring tools are cheap from like machine mart

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Posted 18th Feb 2013 at 16:24
rikky 🦔

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Post #9
easy enough to make up anyway with the std copper pipe and some m10 unions etc

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Posted 18th Feb 2013 at 16:24
blandy

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Post #10
Will pick up a tool this week. Are they m10 in the calipers as well
Posted 18th Feb 2013 at 17:33
daver6

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Post #11
miles wrote:
Most are M10x1 male and female, the bias valve I think is M12x1 (Been a while)
But I would ditch the std set up now your there and get a single line to the back but would mean killing the ABS as well thou, use a adjustable valve then


So I can't just ditch the compensator and fit a bias valve and also retain my ABS?Dunno

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Posted 18th Feb 2013 at 22:34
coskev

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Post #12
daver6 wrote:
miles wrote:
Most are M10x1 male and female, the bias valve I think is M12x1 (Been a while)
But I would ditch the std set up now your there and get a single line to the back but would mean killing the ABS as well thou, use a adjustable valve then


So I can't just ditch the compensator and fit a bias valve and also retain my ABS?Dunno


You've got two brake lines running down the car, so would need a bias valve on each line to retain abs I'm pretty sureDunno

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Posted 18th Feb 2013 at 22:52
daver6

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Post #13
Aye, good point Kev!

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Posted 19th Feb 2013 at 15:19

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