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Author Subject: DemonDriverDan's Race Rallye Project
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

Status: Offline
Post #51
sod spending £150 on brake lines inside, £10 of copper line ftw.

also sod the iridiums, standard ngh's ftw,

£50 to cut some plastic sheet to fit the doors? lol

Dont need a K&N there's £50 saved, dont need £45 oil, £25 will more than suffice.


there you go, saved you a load Big grin


leave the roller bearing bushes, get the later o.e ones, fill the voids with PU, dont need adjustable droplinks, spend the cash saved on the beam, you will need to spend more than £50 on it if its never been apart.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:49
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daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline
Post #52
More tips from the money saving expert next week folks!

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:55
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demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

Status: Offline
Post #53
Need to get a tool to bend the copper pipe but that shouldn't be too bad. Won't be happening until I get the 310mm kit anyway and that probably won't be for a while either.

Iridiums / non-Iridiums, about a £2 difference per plug :p

Was an overestimation, I agree. Piece of flocked perspex will probably end up being much cheaper.

Roller bearing bushes are part of a long term plan really. What do you mean by PU?

Beam's currently apart at home. Needs new brake lines but other than that the shafts are in good condition so waiting to get rebuilt on the car. Might need to purchase some new springs for the coilovers as I'm not sure how low the current ones will be when they're on the car.

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:56
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phillipm

Seasoned Pro

Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

Status: Offline
Post #54
demondriverdan wrote:
phillipm wrote:
Swap the rear Greenstuff for Mintex 1144's from RallyDesign.


Done, cheers Smile

Did you get my PM about the cage?


Yeah, just got back from hols, I'll PM you later.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
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Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:56
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phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

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Post #55
welshpug! wrote:
get the later o.e ones, fill the voids with PU


No
Just use the later bushes as they are.
Without serious prep the PU won't have a strong enough bond to the rubber anyway, and those voids are there to reduce the strain on the bond from the rubber>steel insert, so you might find they seperate around there too.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:58
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welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

Status: Offline
Post #56
Fair enough, guess it works better on the lower engine mount as it doesnt twist.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 3rd Jun 2013 at 00:17
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phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

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Post #57
welshpug! wrote:
Fair enough, guess it works better on the lower engine mount as it doesnt twist.


Yeah, would be fine on engine mounts. You can do it with the wishbones, but you need 2 part poly and a primer and then have to dick about soaking them in acetone and baking in the oven. Waaaay too much work LOL:

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 3rd Jun 2013 at 00:33
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owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline
Post #58
Agreed you need copper for inside the car, the bending tool is about £7 off eBay. Also, don't bother with RC6 pads for the front, they'll absolutely destroy your paintwork on your wheels and sides of the car.

I have Bluestuffs on mine, they're awesome pads and don't leave red-hot brake dust over everything they go near.

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Posted 3rd Jun 2013 at 08:26
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demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #59
Put the Gaz Golds on yesterday. Was just me doing it and had to keep putting things inside while it rained randomly throughout the day! Generally went really well. Need to get some new droplinks as the old ones were shagged so still got that to do but apart from that all good. Anyway, some photos of the day:

Jacked up and ready to go



Something's missing here...



There it is! :p



Left hand side before



During



After



Wheel back on



And done. Not settled yet so still a bit high Smile



Brembos are quite close to the Dotz alloys!

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 5th Nov 2017 at 18:43
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Jake

Regular

Location: Durham

Registered: 26 Mar 2012

Posts: 251

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Post #60
Looks awesome! Good spec too.

What series are you planning on racing in?

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Posted 16th Jun 2013 at 19:58
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demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #61
Jake wrote:
Looks awesome! Good spec too.

What series are you planning on racing in?


When it's done it'll be pretty good, got a fair bit to go yet. Planning an August trackday at the moment so that's my next deadline.

Planning on starting racing in Trackday Trophy then see where we go from there.

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 16th Jun 2013 at 22:18
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7057sam

Seasoned Pro

Location: Stowmarket,Suffolk

Registered: 18 Apr 2009

Posts: 2,080

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Post #62
I remember this rallye when ian had it.nice to see it in the forum Smile

Ahhh i really need to get some g88 disk

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Posted 16th Jun 2013 at 23:19
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daver6

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Location: Durham

Registered: 08 Aug 2010

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Post #63
Just a quick one about strut removal, I tried to swap mine over the other day but couldn't drop the hub and wishbone enough, as if I'd have to remove the arm to get enough clearance.

Any tips?

________________________________________

Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"

Wishbone Polybushes available
Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 08:56
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dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

Posts: 10,305

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Post #64
Tried a bar between the arm and subframe to lever it down?

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    • Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 09:36
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    demondriverdan

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Londinium

    Registered: 29 Nov 2010

    Posts: 2,665

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    Post #65
    7057sam wrote:
    I remember this rallye when ian had it.nice to see it in the forum Smile

    Ahhh i really need to get some g88 disk


    Yea, me too. The current ones are slightly warped as I got pretty severe wheel wobble when I took it out last year. Going to leave them on for now and pick up some new ones then swap on the trackday if they're still bad.

    daver6 wrote:
    Just a quick one about strut removal, I tried to swap mine over the other day but couldn't drop the hub and wishbone enough, as if I'd have to remove the arm to get enough clearance.

    Any tips?


    The way I did it was to put a small jack under the balljoint to support the weight then smash the hub down with a club hammer and punch. When it go to nearly low enough I undid the top bolts and tilted / wiggled the strut out. I'm not really sure exactly what I did to get them free, lots of tilting and turning of the strut. You should be able to get the top of the strut out and push it further in to the wheel arch to get the bottom out of the hub.

    Luckily the Gazs are shorter so much easier to get back in!

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    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 09:37
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    daver6

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    Location: Durham

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    Post #66
    I stopped when it looked like I wouldn't have enough room to wiggle it out.

    I tried the balljoint smashing method too, but juat couldn't seem to get the hub and bone low enough to actually get the strut out. I'll have anothrt look when I'm not so pressed for time Smile

    ________________________________________

    Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"

    Wishbone Polybushes available
    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 10:09
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    demondriverdan

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Londinium

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    Post #67
    daver6 wrote:
    I stopped when it looked like I wouldn't have enough room to wiggle it out.

    I tried the balljoint smashing method too, but juat couldn't seem to get the hub and bone low enough to actually get the strut out. I'll have anothrt look when I'm not so pressed for time Smile


    It was definitely a lot of wiggling and swearing! Although my car was 40mm lower to start with so that might have made it easier to get the strut out.

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    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 13:23
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    prism7guy

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

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    Post #68
    I do the hammering process to get mine off too, std ride height. Usually try and pry the hub apart slightly round the back where the bolt nips it up before hammering as it makes life slightly easier.

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    Goldie the track car.
    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 18:02
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    daveyboy

    aka Jim Davey

    Location: Southampton

    Registered: 01 Oct 2007

    Posts: 8,648

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    Post #69
    Small spring compressors help on std struts, means you don't have to push the hub down so far and less chance of popping a drive-shaft out clobbering things and heaving it all around.

    ________________________________________

    R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

    Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
    Engine mount/chassis repair
    Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
    Harness bars
    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 18:10
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    welshpug!

    Capt Pedantic

    Location: Bigend, Wales.

    Registered: 27 Mar 2007

    Posts: 25,817

    Status: Offline
    Post #70
    I never bother trying to remove the damper from the hub on the car, just crack off the hub nut and pull the balljoint out, far easier and quicker, less risk of damaging stuff and leakage of fluids.

    ________________________________________

    need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

    Bring on the Trumpets.

    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 18:17
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    demondriverdan

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Londinium

    Registered: 29 Nov 2010

    Posts: 2,665

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    Post #71
    I had a small leak of gearbox fluid when I did the drivers side but barely anything. Topping it up a little bit before we go back out again.

    Currently thinking about droplinks. Can get a set from ECP for £40 (Lemforders) but hoping I can pick up some second hand adjustables for around the same money.

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    Posted 17th Jun 2013 at 19:05
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    daver6

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Durham

    Registered: 08 Aug 2010

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    Post #72
    demondriverdan wrote:
    I had a small leak of gearbox fluid when I did the drivers side but barely anything. Topping it up a little bit before we go back out again.

    Currently thinking about droplinks. Can get a set from ECP for £40 (Lemforders) but hoping I can pick up some second hand adjustables for around the same money.


    I'm about to buy a pair today, for a lot less than £40 though Smile

    Then I'm making some adjustable

    ________________________________________

    Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"

    Wishbone Polybushes available
    Posted 18th Jun 2013 at 07:56
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    demondriverdan

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Londinium

    Registered: 29 Nov 2010

    Posts: 2,665

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    Post #73
    daver6 wrote:
    I'm about to buy a pair today, for a lot less than £40 though Smile

    Then I'm making some adjustable


    Where are you getting them from? Interested in making me a set of adjustables? LOL

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    Posted 18th Jun 2013 at 08:08
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    demondriverdan

    Seasoned Pro

    Location: Londinium

    Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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    Post #74
    Update from the last couple of weeks. Adjustable droplinks went on the car. Quite easy to fit in the end, much nicer than the standard ones anyway! Big grin





    Lowered the front a bit while I was there:



    I also picked up a 310mm brake kit and 16" Pro Race 1.2s that are now fitted. Impressed with the performance of the 310s even without temp in them. Can't wait to get out on track again to see how they really are.







    On Sunday I took off the rear beam in to rebuild it. I had originally intended to use a spare beam I have but I had forgotten that it was a non-ABS beam so turned out to be easier to put the new TBs and ARB in the beam already on the car anyway. Didn't get that done on Sunday so hoping to have it sorted during the week. 23.5mm TBs, hybrid ARB, solid mounts, new discs, pads and braided lines all to go.

    Also finally diagnosed the issue with the fuel gauge to be the dial cluster itself so getting a replacement soon Smile

    ________________________________________

    Rallye Race Car
    Posted 23rd Jul 2013 at 12:57
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    daveyboy

    aka Jim Davey

    Location: Southampton

    Registered: 01 Oct 2007

    Posts: 8,648

    Status: Offline
    Post #75
    Can you post up a pic of the solid mounts please?

    ________________________________________

    R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

    Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
    Engine mount/chassis repair
    Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
    Harness bars
    Posted 23rd Jul 2013 at 21:42
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