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Author Subject: DemonDriverDan's Race Rallye Project
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

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Post #26
The Brembos were great, just a pain about the warping. Not sure if I did it or that's how they were, possibly me but I'm fairly sure I warmed them up well enough first.

I'll look into getting one of those plugs!

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 12:33
demondriverdan

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Post #27
Just realised the 17 point is a bolt in cage. Are bolt in cages ok? What sort of protection do they offer vs. a full weld in cage?

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 12:38
owain

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Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

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Post #28
They're absolutely fine, but do remember that (somewhat unintuitively) a bolt-in requires metal plates to be welded in first for you to bolt the cage to - the standard shell just isn't strong enough to have a cage bolted or welded to it.

I heard it summed up well once - a bolt-in will save you, a weld-in will save the car. Basically in a big off a bolt-in will keep you safe, but your car will be a write-off. With a weld-in, however, the cage actually offers significantly more structural strength to the car, so the car is less likely to be destroyed.

However, let's be realistic for a second here. These are not £500k touring cars, they're not the latest Evo X rally car, these are s**tty fifteen-year-old piles of French tin. If you rolled the car enough to be thankful for a cage, chances are you're not going to be going back to the pits, pumping up the tyres and getting back on track.

Personally, I'd go for a bolt-in. You just need to find somewhere reliable to weld in the plates, then you can install the cage yourself, saving you a tonne of cash. They offer the safety aspect, but don't add anything in the way of rigidity; a weld-in will therefore help improve handling, but only if fitted properly, i.e. quality gusseting everywhere it's near the shell, cage actually in contact with roof panels etc, and that's a multi-thousand pound install.

BIRCFTMFW.

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Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 12:46
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,793

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Post #29
multi-million*

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306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 13:02
phillipm

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Post #30
If you count the cost of the hair replacement therapy, yeah....

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- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
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Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 13:04
matt evans

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Post #31
I would add that IMO, a bolt in cage will offer a small amount of additional stiffness. My Escort RS turbo had a SD 6 point bolt in cage, and without it, when you jacked the front wheel up, the doors would be a bugger to open and shut, with the cage in they opened and closed fine, meaning to me the shell was distorting less.

Totally agree about the massive torisonal stifness offered by a propper multi point weld in cage, especially to the suspension pick up points etc etc.

Overkill on a £500 quid french s**tter? Who knows?

________________________________________

1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 16:13
demondriverdan

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Post #32
With the eventual aim to go racing, I think I should go for the weld in option.

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 16:47
owain

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Post #33
demondriverdan wrote:
With the eventual aim to go racing bin it in spectacular style, I think I should go for the weld in option.


I agree.

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Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 16:49
demondriverdan

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Post #34
owain wrote:
demondriverdan wrote:
With the eventual aim to go racing bin it in spectacular style, I think I should go for the weld in option.


I agree.


Give me time! Big grin

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 16:50
demondriverdan

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Post #35
Youtube video is now up for the entire session: http://youtu.be/PcLxbkp0eLA

Actual session starts at around 4:30.

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 17:49
prism7guy

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Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

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Post #36
Personally i'd go for a weld in cage, made the world of difference to the stiffness of my chassis. Yes

EDIT: I have KW V2's on mine too, bought them second hand and not had any issues with them so far.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 18:11
owain

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Post #37
Phwoar, you dirty bas**rd

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Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 18:12
prism7guy

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Post #38
owain wrote:
Phwoar, you dirty bas**rd


Wink LOL

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 29th Aug 2012 at 18:13
demondriverdan

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Post #39
Been having a think and have decided to shift the 15"s on and get some 16" TD 1.2s instead.

The regs of the series I want to race in have changed so I no longer need to run standard size alloys. As a result, I'll move up to 16"s.

While this has the disadvantage of more expensive tyres, I don't have to run spacers and I can move on the 406 Brembos for some bigger calipers that don't require me to run £220 discs!

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 19th Sep 2012 at 18:42
owain

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Post #40
Everyone I ever know who's sat down and said "right, I'm going to figure out what wheels I need for track" has ended up with TD Pro Race 1.2s. Every one.

You have PM Thumbs up

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Posted 19th Sep 2012 at 20:42
tvrfan007

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Post #41
I figured out what wheels I needed for track.... Compomotive MOs :p

In 16" though everyone seems to go to TD PR1.2s

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Posted 19th Sep 2012 at 20:49
clen666

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Post #42
I've been searching for ages trying to find an alternative to the 1.2s, I'm struggling to find something that matches the weight in the correct fitment

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Team 'unintentional rat look'
Posted 19th Sep 2012 at 20:51
owain

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Post #43
Exactly. Perfect balance of weight, strength and looks.

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Posted 19th Sep 2012 at 20:53
demondriverdan

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Post #44
I love the look of them as well, just reminds me of BTCC! Having spent waaayyyy to much time in the pits at BTCC, it's amazing the amount of cars that run them.

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 19th Sep 2012 at 20:55
clen666

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Post #45
I'm waiting to hear back from ATS, but they take their time replying to emails

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Posted 20th Sep 2012 at 09:10
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

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Post #46
ATS do a lighter wheel than 1.2s, thye make to order too so centrebore and offset can be exactly what you need.

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
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Harness bars
Posted 20th Sep 2012 at 09:32
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

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Post #47
Bit of an update, been slowly acquiring bits and bobs in prep for the Xmas hols from Uni when I can start working on it again. Current bits bought are 23.5mm rear TBs, hybrid ARB and Gaz Golds. Also a second hand fuel pump / sender courtesy of Dan (gauge isn't working, first part to replace to try and get it working).



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Rallye Race Car
Posted 5th Nov 2017 at 18:38
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

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Post #48
Very little progress on the car recently as I've been away at uni. Now finished my course so started to look in to prices for the bits I need to get the car to a good level. Thoughts on the below?

Suspension
- Roller bearing bushes £230
- Top mounts £135
- Upper strut brace £90
- Lower strut brace £120
- Adjustable drop links £80
- Solid rear beam mounts £130
- Misc rear beam rebuilt parts £50
Total: £835

Brakes
- 310mm brake kit £550
- Brake lines (exterior) £68.95
- Brake lines (interior) £150
- Bias valve £30
- Carbon Lorraine RC6 pads £163.88
- Rotors £150
- Brembo discs (rear) £27.92
- Greenstuff (rear) £36.34
Total: £1,177.09

Wheels / Tyres
- TD Pro Race 1.2s 16" £300
- Federal 595RSRs £376
Total: £676

Interior
- Rollcage parts £500
- Rollcage fitting £500
- Flocked dash £100
- Door cards £50
- Race seat £240
- Harness £150
- Extinguisher £100
- Electrical cut-off £22
Total: £1,662

Engine
- Gulf Competition Oil £45
- NGK Iridium Spark Plugs £12
- Fuel filter £6.60
- K&N filter £50
- Oil filter £5.50
- Crank pulley £65
- Lightened flywheel £150
Total: £334.10

Complete total: £4,684.19

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:30
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

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Post #49
Swap the rear Greenstuff for Mintex 1144's from RallyDesign.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:36
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #50
phillipm wrote:
Swap the rear Greenstuff for Mintex 1144's from RallyDesign.


Done, cheers Smile

Did you get my PM about the cage?

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 2nd Jun 2013 at 23:41

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