you would know if it was smoke, the car would of stunk of nasty burning.
Keep an eye on the above points and see how it goes, probably heater matrix if it gets worse, not to worry, it's an old car so to be expected and it's easily fixable for anybody that's got a bit of confidence with the spanners.

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

Sounds like steam to me, if it was smoke you would've been coughing and spluttering and you'd know it, also it'd be dry so the windscreen wouldn't steam up.

My money's on knackered heater matrix. Here are the answers to your next questions:

1) It's behind the dash, which needs to come out
2) Realistically best part of a day if you've never done it before
3) Yes if you know your way around a torx screwdriver and a 10mm spanner
4) About £40
5) Two types, depends if you have air con or not. Valeo for non aircon and Behr for air-con (iirc)
6) GSF or ECP
7) Yes, you need to be careful not to snap the clips on the coolant hoses on the inside of the bonnet
8) Yes there is, the FAQ is here

Best of luck with your quest.

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Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.

Remove the cover from under the dash in the passenger footwell, if damp up there or dribling out coolant from
Near the motor / air box then the matrix
Is fooked. Dash out jobby I'm afraid. Done loads of them now.

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Black power baby! SUUUUUPERCHARGED
Seat Leon FR TDI 190BHP 300lbft daily gti-6 killer :p
12x 306's owned so far

Cambelts, clutches, service work carried out on All makes and models, Peugeot Citroen / mitsubishi specialist.
Pug planet / Citroen Lexia diagnostics / code reads available.

It doesn't get that hot in there though for it to burn anything, any dust or leaves in there won't actually burn, as in ignite and cause smoke.

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andrew315rawson@live.co.uk
Moonstone phase 7 gti6
My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1

I did indeed and nothing, so far the problem has not returned. Thanks all.

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Black Peugeot 306 XSI 2.0 1995

Owned since new and still love driving it !

OK Chaps looks like I definatley have the makings of a faulty heater matrix as mist from vent is back, windscreen misting up, and last week found a little pool of water in the passenger footwell !. Now at the moment I have all those symptoms barring the pool of water and a slight trickle every now and then.

I have looked at the FAQ's and see it is a big job for a £30 part which has annoyed me plus think it is beyond me doing it myself as sure I would break something more major doing it.

Is it possible to just take the matrix out of the loop on a Phase 1 ie connect the pipes and leave it like that till I decided next steps or leave it for good, not worried to much about cold as a run around ?

Also I heard radseal is a possibility.

Any good FAQ's on how to do this too ?.

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Black Peugeot 306 XSI 2.0 1995

Owned since new and still love driving it !

Thanks Owain for the pictures and instruction and think this is going to be my plan of attack and leave it like that.

I don't have a spare matrix pipe so what else can I use tha will fit ?.

Also do I need to do anthing else apart from pull them both off and link up ie bleed anything or shut off ? (Newbie)

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Black Peugeot 306 XSI 2.0 1995

Owned since new and still love driving it !

Personally for ease I'd put an ad in the wanted section for a spare so you know it's the same size. Plenty of people will have spare knackered ones (i.e. with the clips broken off) that normally get binned, but they'd do you fine and someone's probably got one they'll sell you for the price of the postage.

Personally I didn't bother bleeding mine, just put a bucket underneath when you undo the pipe and it'll happily empty itself. Method is thus:

1 - Only work on engine when it's cold. Not only will the engine overheat when you run the new coolant through, but you'll melt the skin off your hands when you undo the pipe. Only ever do this on a cold engine.

2 - Disconnect the old pipe using some pliers on the irritating clip

3 - Let old coolant drain into a bucket/floor

4 - Connect up new pipe, make sure it can't kink

5 - Top up reservoir to coolant at correct concentration (as written on container)

6 - Start the engine, top up coolant quickly as it drops

7 - Once it's not dropping any more, undo the bleed screw on the top of the radiator until coolant bubbles through.

That should be it job done. Keep a close eye on your engine temperature and coolant level over the next few drives, and regularly make sure the pipe's still tight and not kinked.

If you ever notice your engine temp suddenly going up, get that engine turned off immediately, as the pipe's probably come off, and you'll melt your engine in seconds if you don't get it off quick.

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Membership expiring soon, get in contact on our new little forum project.

You'll hear horror stories about K-seal/Rad-Weld etc, but it wouldn't be on the market if it didn't work... and it does work. We've used it on cars at work if the customer wants to use the car for a season then bring in over winter for restoration.

I'm not certain about a total fix for it, I see it as a temporary measure, BUT, I half think it would last the duration

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Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"

Wishbone Polybushes available

Has worked for my matrix so far :-) will do a coolant change soon

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cherry p1.....SOLD (regreting this)
blaze p2.....why did i buy this SOLD
Black p3

I think a lot of it is pot luck with these engines...

I've had ones which bleed up fine in seconds causing no bother and I've had others which have been a right PITA to get all the air out.

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone

Do we call this a result then so far?

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone