displaying posts 1 to 17 of 17

Author Subject: Track Day Car Buying Guide
demondriverdan

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Post #1
Had a skim through the FAQs and couldn't see a thread on a track car buying guide so thought I'd ask you all Smile

Off to have a look at a track specced Rallye tomorrow evening, not ideal as it won't be the best of lighting conditions but it's the only chance I've got in the next couple of weeks.

I've read the normal buying guide a few times having only recently bought the road Rallye but is there anything specific to look for on a track car?

(The car is Ian's cherry Rallye in Felixstowe in case anyone knows of it!)

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Posted 16th Aug 2012 at 20:39
owain

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Post #2
If it's a dedicated track car obviously the things to look out for are very different, here's what I found/bought/learned:

1) If it's going on track, it'll get dented/scratched/chipped. Don't bother spending extra on a car with perfect paintwork, it won't be staying that way. I got mine cheap as one of the panels was dented in; don't care, saves me crashing it myself

2) You will, inevitably, want to upgrade suspension and bushes, so personally I wouldn't worry too much if they're all shot

3) The engine. It's *all* about the engine. It's the only thing you can't easily replace or fix, so make sure it's been serviced regularly, doesn't have any leaks, no gunk squirting out. Check the oil level. Check the coolant level. If they're low, there could be a problem. Check it's got a genuine Peugeot oil filter on it, the cheaper ones don't always have a non-return value and they show the previous owner has been willing to scrimp on maintenance and save £2 by not buying genuine filters.

If you can, find out what oil's been put in. Again if it's cheap, that's not a great sign. If the owner says "I only ever use fully (or at least semi) synthetic", then at least it shows they know the basics of how important engine maintenance is.

4) Sunroof - they're heavy, and they don't give you enough room for a helmet. Personally, I had mine welded up - saved about 30kg and meant about 3" more headroom.



5) Wheels - don't worry about the condition of them, you'll end up replacing them with Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s anyway

6) Brakes - don't worry about condition of discs and pads, you should replace them anyway if you're doing track work

7) Roll cage - if it has one, make sure it's in properly; a badly-fitted cage can be more dangerous than no cage. If it's a weld-in, there should be reinforcing plates everywhere it touches the car - the same is often forgotten for bolt-ins; just because it's bolted down doesn't mean it can be bolted directly to the standard bodywork. All cages should be attached to thick, welded in plates.

Basically for a track car it's all about the engine. Any muppet with a screwdriver can turn a s**tbox into an awesome track car bit a bit of patience, but you need a good engine to start with.

With second-hand cars it's obviously always a bit of an unknown, so it's better to concentrate on the bits that you know you wouldn't want to change, and just factor in replacing everything else yourself. You might not be able to tell what pads it's got in - doesn't matter, replace them. Discs - £25 or so for new fronts. Who cares, that's not even near the cost of one trackday.

That's about all I can think of for now, best of luck.

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 10:31
fatlapit

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Post #3
i agree with all the above apart from the engine, if youn learn how to drive the track properley ie braking in the correct places and using the right gears and use the racing line, you wont need a big powerful engine as its all about momentum. My advise learn your car push it to the edge and beyond so you scare yourself, when it stops being scary then its time for a proper engine

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 10:44
owain

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Post #4
Well to clarify a point - I never said the engine needed to be powerful, just well-maintained. I'd never advocate anything other than a standard engine as they inevitably go wrong, just that it needs to have been looked after.

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 10:50
clen666

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Post #5
I think Owain has pretty much covered it.

As long as it's structurally sound and doesn't spit oil all over the track then you can have a laugh in whatever you can find

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 11:07
demondriverdan

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Post #6
Thanks for all the info guys, I really appreciate it!

The plan is to track the car for a year then start racing in the 2014 season. Before we start the engine will come out and be overhauled and all suspension rubbers etc. will be replaced. First thing to go in will probably be a cage though! Big grin

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 12:41
rikky 🦔

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Post #7
i'd consider buying one already done as you will spend lots and lots!

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 12:45
cjm_harris

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Post #8
rikky wrote:
i'd consider buying one already done as you will spend lots and lots!


^ This.

Its much less fun buying one thats been done, but if youre anything like me, you will spend all your money building the things, and it hardly makes it to the track due to lack of funds.. Laugh

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 12:52
demondriverdan

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Post #9
It would be cheaper in the long run, I agree but I'd prefer to do some work myself as I'm normally pretty hands off when it comes work / maintenance on my road car.

Call it personal satisfaction Smile I'm sharing the work / money with my brother so it's not too bad.

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 12:56
phillipm

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Post #10
rikky wrote:
i'd consider buying one already done as you will spend lots and lots!


And then get bored and sell it before it goes on track Whistle

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 12:59
rikky 🦔

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Post #11
yeah pretty much!

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Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 13:08
dangti6

aka JKshooter

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Post #12
I probably enjoy building mine more than using it. FML.

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  • Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 13:19
    demondriverdan

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    Post #13
    dangti6 wrote:
    I probably enjoy building mine more than using it. FML.


    This is kind of the point. I don't do much work myself normally (apart from on the classic cars but they're a bit different!) so would like to do a bit more, this is where the track car comes in.

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    Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 14:05
    spiky

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    Post #14
    mine was boge std when i bought it,

    the only thing left is shell and top of the dash..lol

    but i do agree its' MUCH MUCH cheaper to buy one thats already preped Big grinD:

    you'll always modifiy it, but most of the basic track stuff would have been done Smile

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    Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 14:07
    demondriverdan

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    Post #15
    Specs of the car from Ian (Bertrum):

    - Stripped front and rear
    - Some dash removed
    - Most sound deadening removed
    - Grab handles on doors
    - Some wiring removed from floor (C/L and aftermarket alarm system)
    - Seat belt pre-tensioner wiring removed (thus light flashing)
    - Cobra reclining bucket seats (will be replaced prior to racing)
    - Luke 4 point harnesses (will be replaced prior to racing)
    - Welded in rear harness bar
    - 13 row Mocal oil cooler with thermostatic plate
    - Brembo 406 4pot callipers
    - Tarox G88 discs
    - Dotz alloys
    - Eibach pro springs up front (standard shocks)
    - Lowered on the rear to match
    - Cat back stainless steel exhaust
    - Upgraded panel filter

    Bad points

    - Paint not amazing (not too worried about this)
    - Replacement battery needed soon (light-weight race battery?)
    - Small power steering pump leak (would replace and do aux belt at the same time)

    Thoughts?

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    Posted 17th Aug 2012 at 14:14
    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #16
    Would really depend on price.

    In my opinion, that's effectively a rallye with stripped interior, some bucket and 406 brakes.

    I'd personally buy a standard car and sell the interior etc on and spec it how you want it.

    Plus, why pay rallye 'premiums' if your going to take the bits out anyway? Buy a ten a penny £500 gti6, remove and sell the interior.

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  • Posted 18th Aug 2012 at 12:42
    owain

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    Post #17
    All depends entirely on price Yes

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    Posted 18th Aug 2012 at 13:02

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