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 welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #26
samslow wrote: so £150 for a refurb in colour of my choice i don't thinks bad but £50 more than a few have quoted above  ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
 Posted 14th Apr 2012 at 13:07
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custom-decals2012
Regular  Location: england Registered: 14 Aug 2011 Posts: 262 Status: Offline |
Post #27
Never tried this place in birmingham, but it is very cheap at £20 a wheel.http://www.citypowdercoating.co.uk/ ________________________________________ 306 Replacement Badge's and stickers http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=147484Email: vinyl-decals@hotmail.co.uk Website: http://custom-decals.co.uk/ |
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Posted 14th Apr 2012 at 13:11
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dangti6
aka JKshooter  Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #28
A local place I use for powder coating charge £40 a wheel IIRC. Sounds steep at £160 a set, but as others have said when you add up materials, and your time to DIY you are better off spending the extra and getting a better finish. rikky wrote: i got nitromors in my eye and didn't wash it out, merely wiped my eye. agony the day after. luckily i got a glass eye in the right colour off ebay so all was not lost ________________________________________  |
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Posted 14th Apr 2012 at 13:15
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samslow
Regular  Location: leicester Registered: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 158 Status: Offline |
Post #29
welshpug! wrote: samslow wrote: so £150 for a refurb in colour of my choice i don't thinks bad but £50 more than a few have quoted above i havnet found anywhere round here that will do the whole lot inc blast/prep for less than 200 ________________________________________ Diablo Gti6 ph 2 98 |
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Posted 14th Apr 2012 at 16:53
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tom275
Regular  Location: Taunton Registered: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: 167 Status: Offline |
Post #30
I can't find anywhere as cheap as you guys. All coming in at the £250 mark. One place wants £30 a wheel just to sandblast them.One wheel is now bare metal, I might just buy a new set and sell these on as a project! |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 09:43
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #31
tom275 wrote: I can't find anywhere as cheap as you guys. As I am a couple of miles from you, you could try the place I got quoted £40 a wheel  Blast 'n' Bake. Give it a google. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 09:58
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russbez
Seasoned Pro  Location: Inverness-Shire Registered: 19 Dec 2005 Posts: 7,458 Status: Offline |
Post #32
my local powder coaters at £180 for 4 No 16" wheels, includes minor repairs only. not heard any reviews either ________________________________________ TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYEMy Rallye project thread |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 10:07
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tom275
Regular Location: Taunton Registered: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: 167 Status: Offline |
Post #33
Blast and Bake just came back with a price of £200 :/Anyone got any decent cyclones to sell? |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 12:45
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #34
What condition are the rims themselves actually in? To save prep, you could get them blasted and then paint them yourself, but with blasting costs and materials you are at the price quoted for powder coating.Good results don't come cheap i'm afraid. Looks like decent used ones may be the way forward - although a decent set with decent tyres will probably be more than getting yours done. If you have decent tyres, and would swap them over to better condition cyclones, you still have tyre change costs. There is another powdercoating place fairly local. I'l have a think what they are called. Blast 'n' Bake did my inlet manifold and are very good and reasonably priced. I am sure they quoted £40 a wheel. Perhaps it's changed or depends who is quoting. I need to go in at some point to get a beam done, I will ask out of curiosity. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 12:59
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tom275
Regular Location: Taunton Registered: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: 167 Status: Offline |
Post #35
The rims are fine, its just the paint thats shoddy.There's a local chap who can supply all the paint for around £40 and I'm fairly happy to give it a go myself, Ive seen some good results from rattle cans with the right prep. Ive asked Blast n Bake to see how much for just the "Blast" Two tyres need replacing though so If I can get a set for £200 with decent tyres then that will be the cheaper option. Still have the old wheels to sell then. |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 14:19
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dangti6
aka JKshooter Location: Taunton, Somerset Registered: 15 Jun 2006 Posts: 10,305 Status: Offline |
Post #36
tom275 wrote: There's a local chap who can supply all the paint for around £40 and I'm fairly happy to give it a go myself Iain? ________________________________________ |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 14:22
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #37
tom275 wrote: I can't find anywhere as cheap as you guys. All coming in at the £250 mark. One place wants £30 a wheel just to sandblast them. One wheel is now bare metal, I might just buy a new set and sell these on as a project! why don't you try one of the places suggested? ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 14:26
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tom275
Regular Location: Taunton Registered: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: 167 Status: Offline |
Post #38
welshpug! wrote: tom275 wrote: I can't find anywhere as cheap as you guys. All coming in at the £250 mark. One place wants £30 a wheel just to sandblast them. One wheel is now bare metal, I might just buy a new set and sell these on as a project! why don't you try one of the places suggested? Simply because although they are quite cheap, the cost of couriering a set of wheels across the country and back is not going to be cheap. Its interesting how its much cheaper in other parts of the country though. |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 14:40
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #39
still cheaper than the prices you've been quoted all in, do you never venture out of Somerset? ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 14:55
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bongo dts
Senior User  Location: Leicester Registered: 03 Jun 2008 Posts: 633 Status: Offline |
Post #40
Here is some of what I have done in the past - all DIY done with Nitromors, drill with wire brush and rattle cans. I'm not proclaiming it to be the best work in the world as powder coating would be better though I have also seen some poor jobs and more to give you an idea of the finish that is achievable doing it DIY though as has been said, does require a large number of hours to be put in.    And just to add, I never had any issues with flaking paint or bubbling. Couldn't really comment on the longevity of the finish as I was such a wheel whore with my old car I never had a set on for more than 6 months pretty much but they would last long enough in my opinion and never had any people come back to me who bought them as and when I got bored with them! |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 18:03
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davewagon
Senior User  Location: Corby / Northampton Registered: 21 Feb 2007 Posts: 889 Status: Offline |
Post #41
Looks good them Matt!Do you do these for just yourself, or other people? (you're quite close to me lol) ________________________________________ Team: Moonstone GTI-6™Team: ian7675 wrote: Remember....a 6 isn't just a car, it's a part time job |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 18:13
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bongo dts
Senior User Location: Leicester Registered: 03 Jun 2008 Posts: 633 Status: Offline |
Post #42
Ta Dave. Just for myself really and they all went on my old Tractor with about another 4 sets in the 2 years I owned it!! Not done any for a couple of years though but tempted to attack the Cyclones soon which will probably go up for sale not long after when I get bored of them!I used to do it more just picking up bargains on the bay with the old car but now fuel has gone up 50% and I have a car that does 50% less MPG, things add up a bit more! Plus I go out a bit more now as it does take a good while to get a decent finish at home |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 18:25
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davewagon
Senior User Location: Corby / Northampton Registered: 21 Feb 2007 Posts: 889 Status: Offline |
Post #43
fair enoughCan't really be wasting money in things that don't need it anyway lol ________________________________________ Team: Moonstone GTI-6™Team: ian7675 wrote: Remember....a 6 isn't just a car, it's a part time job |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 18:35
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tom275
Regular Location: Taunton Registered: 26 Oct 2009 Posts: 167 Status: Offline |
Post #44
There rather impressive!I think I'm going to be a bit more aggressive with the Nitomors and man up to the task. How much paint did you use per wheel? |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 20:11
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bongo dts
Senior User Location: Leicester Registered: 03 Jun 2008 Posts: 633 Status: Offline |
Post #45
To be fair Nitromors may have changed as I seem to recall reading it was going to be banned due to chemicals in it but this would have been at least a couple of years ago as I've not done for at least that long. Just follow the instructions on there as that's all I did and I'm sure its a thin coat followed by thick allowing it to work first.I always used a thin coat of etch primer, good coat of filer/high-build primer (found CarPlan to be the best here), rub down and touch up where needed and then rub down again. 1 or 2 coats of colour rubbing down inbetween and then a coat of lacquer. Never rubbed down after and polished out as it takes ages by hand but would have made the above have even more depth and reflection if that is what you want. Paint wise - Upol etch primer can will last a while just using a light initial coat, high build primer probably a 400ml can then maybe 1.5-2 cans of colour depending on shape and size. Big can of lacquer from Halford easily enough for the wheels and probs have some left over. I just got all my paint from Halford tbh and found it good enough quality, sure you can get better but all the above was done using that so seemed good enough for the job to me. High build was from local factors Graham Goodes and does seem to work a lot better than the Halfords stuff. I just followed the guide on here in the faq or pugnet but the key is taking the time in prepping and rubbing down to flat each coat well so it's not orange peely before going on to the next one. Sugar soap wipes and an Oakey Dust Cloth come in very handing for cleaning and ensuring the surfaces are spotless and dustfree before each coat too. |
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Posted 16th Apr 2012 at 20:49
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samslow
Regular Location: leicester Registered: 19 Jul 2010 Posts: 158 Status: Offline |
Post #46
bongo dts wrote: To be fair Nitromors may have changed as I seem to recall reading it was going to be banned due to chemicals in it but this would have been at least a couple of years ago as I've not done for at least that long. Just follow the instructions on there as that's all I did and I'm sure its a thin coat followed by thick allowing it to work first. I always used a thin coat of etch primer, good coat of filer/high-build primer (found CarPlan to be the best here), rub down and touch up where needed and then rub down again. 1 or 2 coats of colour rubbing down inbetween and then a coat of lacquer. Never rubbed down after and polished out as it takes ages by hand but would have made the above have even more depth and reflection if that is what you want. Paint wise - Upol etch primer can will last a while just using a light initial coat, high build primer probably a 400ml can then maybe 1.5-2 cans of colour depending on shape and size. Big can of lacquer from Halford easily enough for the wheels and probs have some left over. I just got all my paint from Halford tbh and found it good enough quality, sure you can get better but all the above was done using that so seemed good enough for the job to me. High build was from local factors Graham Goodes and does seem to work a lot better than the Halfords stuff. I just followed the guide on here in the faq or pugnet but the key is taking the time in prepping and rubbing down to flat each coat well so it's not orange peely before going on to the next one. Sugar soap wipes and an Oakey Dust Cloth come in very handing for cleaning and ensuring the surfaces are spotless and dustfree before each coat too. nice looking work there with the wheels bongo in leicester too! damn you could have done mine  the second wheel down in your pics thats the sort of colour iwas after do you remember what it is? ________________________________________ Diablo Gti6 ph 2 98 |
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Posted 17th Apr 2012 at 17:12
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bongo dts
Senior User Location: Leicester Registered: 03 Jun 2008 Posts: 633 Status: Offline |
Post #47
Thanks and pretty sure they were Ford Graphite Grey dude |
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Posted 17th Apr 2012 at 18:14
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barnettjd77
Regular  Location: dorchester Registered: 12 Nov 2011 Posts: 483 Status: Offline |
Post #48
i can get wheels blasted and powdercoated any colour for £140 a set, pretty good i think, a proffesional company, blastech uk________________________________________ A red rallye in progress! |
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Posted 17th Apr 2012 at 19:02
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dan86
Senior User  Location: Bideford Registered: 10 May 2009 Posts: 548 Status: Offline |
Post #49
It depends how patient you are/how much you live for the 306. If you take pride in your work and are patient, you will get good results with spray cans and body filler. Personally I think paint stripper is more hassle than what its worth. The original primer/paint is nice and thick and is well bonded. I prefer to key the original paint with 400 grit wet and attack the kerb marks with a file and then a smear of body filler. Once the shapes right give them a couple of coats of hi-build primer. Flat the primer with 800 grit ready for basecoat and then laquer. Best way to mask the tyres I've found is to use gaffer/duct tape as it stays stuck to the rubber. You could do all this for £75 I reckon. It does take time and patience. I normally do them one at a time as I put the spare on the car so I can still use it. ________________________________________ |
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Posted 20th Apr 2012 at 18:25
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daver6
Seasoned Pro  Location: Durham Registered: 08 Aug 2010 Posts: 2,379 Status: Offline |
Post #50
I started blasting one of my wheels, about an hour later, the face was ALMOST done. Powercoating stays well stuck! So then I thought, "right, I'll acid *its alkaline though* bath the rest", but as there were various engine heads and blocks in there, I could only do one. Left it there for weeks, took it out and the paint was lifted, but seemingly the powdercoating will not come off. Blasted the rest, still took forever. In short, I'll be paying SEM to sort them http://www.northeastalloys.co.uk/sem-alloys.htm ________________________________________ Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"Wishbone Polybushes available |
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Posted 25th Apr 2012 at 10:14
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