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Author Subject: pressured cooling system, hesitstion in low revs, cutting out
hsustyle

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Location: High Hurstwood

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Post #1
Ok first of all ahhhrrrggg f*&#ING piece of French #&%!.

Had the Rallye for less than 300 miles and noticed the coolant was under a lot of pressure.
So i did a full coolant flush and bleed,let it warm up,fan kicks in,bleed again bla bla.
Well its still super pressured and the top radiator hose is rock hard. Lots of pressure even when i check the coolant in the morning.

Temp doesn't go above 90c.heater is hot

Now the car decided to also cut out when approaching junctions. Only happened a handful of times in the last three days.

When i turn the key to start the engine it fires up,then the revs bounce up to around 2k then drop to 900 ish. Recently just dies down and cuts out.

Also there is a hesitation in lower revs up to 2700ish and the car occasionally judder/ attempts to cut out.

Once again I have a driveway queen that I feel paranoid to drive.
Booked it in for a compression test end of the week.. Is my headgasket going?gigantic airlock? Or what's causing me all this grief?

Any help/ suggestions/ tips/ bad News much appreciated..

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Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 18:15
greenbelt

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Location: How's Life In London?

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Post #2
Head Gasket Failure Sad

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Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 20:01
hsustyle

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Post #3
I thought so. Also there was lot of copper coloured really fine metal in the water when i flush and bled the coolant. What could that be?

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 20:05
ravemercer

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Location: kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2009

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Post #4
Sounds like HG Sad
My HG is gone and yours sounds like the same symptoms. Compression test looking for around an equal 200 across all 4 cylinders if healthy. You can by a comp tester for £20 Halfruds/screwfix easy to do.
A sniff test also, should show up gases in the cooling system.
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 20:10
hsustyle

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Post #5
I'll take it to a local garage for a compression test later this week and report back.

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 20:29
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #6
Sounds like the HG is gone, with the possibility of a dirty ICV and maybe a goosed lambda caused by coolant being burnt in the cylinders?

Best get it in for a check up mate before it gets any worse...Yes

Stan.

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Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 20:42
mrdeey

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Post #7
I have found around t/wells there is some sh#t petrol at the moment so that could be one of your problems , what does the the oil/ filler cap look like any sludge? history of the cambelt / waterpump? and i take it you have bled all three places?

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Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 20:48
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #8
mrdeey wrote:
I have found around t/wells there is some sh#t petrol at the moment


Which fuel inparticular, as in brand and premium or standard? Also, how do you know it is "not up to standard"?

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Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 21:13
hsustyle

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Post #9
I only fill up at total in Crowborough and always have at least half a tank. Receipts for cambelt and waterpump at 79k miles iirc. It's now on 86000. Oil cap is clean and so is the dipstick and radiator cap.
Bled it thoroughly twice,no bubbles at all using a header tank and good quality coolant. Temp doesn't rise above about 85 and only came near 90 once in slow traffic. Fan does work when i ran it hot while bleeding it.
The revs bounce up to 2k for a second when i start it from cold.. what does that indicate?
No smoke or water from exhaust either.
The upper radiator hose was really pressured earlier. Any reputable garages around t wells for a headgasket job?

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 21:17
hsustyle

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Post #10
And yea all three bled.first closed top of Rad,then thermostat,then back of block to the left. No bubbliesSmile

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 21:18
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

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Post #11
hsustyle wrote:
And yea all three bled.first closed top of Rad,then thermostat,then back of block to the left. No bubbliesSmile


You are bleeding it correctly, so no issues there. Smile

The revving up to 2k on starting is most likely down to the ICV needing a clean. Whip it out (2 bolts) and give it a spray with WD40 or similar and a wipe with a clean rag then refit. It may well solve your issue.

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
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Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 21:49
ravemercer

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Post #12
Clean up Idle control valve on the throttle body for the cutting out at junctions . I've also had odd revs because of the plug on the TPS.
Speaking to quite a few people about the pressure in the system afaik theres no reason why there should be sustained pressure after leaving it sat for hours apart from HG unfortunately.
Mine is starting to become hesitant low in the revs once started but soon clears and does not come back until sat for while.
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 21:49
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

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Post #13
There shouldn't be any pressure after a while of the engine being switched off.

For example I can run my car for say 50 miles, get out and switch it off. If I come back 4 hours later and take the rad cap off, you could hear a pin drop, there is no sound AT ALL.

Pressure being kept in the system for any longer than 3-4 hours and there is an issue somewhere, pressure being being kept overnight or for a couple of days is pretty much a guaranteed HG failure. Sad

Stan.

________________________________________

"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 21:53
ravemercer

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Post #14
Tell me about it ! mines now starting to seep back into the bores getting a lumpy idle at start up now clears with a couple of squirts tho. Im releasing the pressure every time I stop, its helping but Sunday cant come soon enough.
Posted 24th Jan 2012 at 22:00
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

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Post #15
Roll eyes

So we were right about your HG failure then?? Whistle

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 25th Jan 2012 at 06:20
mrdeey

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Post #16
Petrol was both #p and #hell , standard 4 star in my wife's cab , kept stalling and wouldn't tick over , after a couple of days it cleared its self , Mate had same probs on his Beemer

There is a Peugeot specialist in crowborough I believe , unknown to me tho, modesty motors in southborough I have used though and mark there is pretty good , quite into his cars is mark

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Posted 25th Jan 2012 at 09:29
coskev

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Post #17
While you are cleaning ICV disconnect your battery and leave it off for 15-20 mins,then when you reconnect it start the car and switch on headlights onto main beam,heater on flat out and leave it idle like that for a while,it re-sets the ECUThumbs up

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Posted 25th Jan 2012 at 09:40
hsustyle

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Post #18
coskev wrote:
While you are cleaning ICV disconnect your battery and leave it off for 15-20 mins,then when you reconnect it start the car and switch on headlights onto main beam,heater on flat out and leave it idle like that for a while,it re-sets the ECUThumbs up


Sweet,that's good to know,i'll try it later. I have a gay talking aftermarket alarm. Will it get p*ssed off if I disconnect the battery?

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 25th Jan 2012 at 10:00
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

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Post #19
hsustyle wrote:
coskev wrote:
While you are cleaning ICV disconnect your battery and leave it off for 15-20 mins,then when you reconnect it start the car and switch on headlights onto main beam,heater on flat out and leave it idle like that for a while,it re-sets the ECUThumbs up


Sweet,that's good to know,i'll try it later. I have a gay talking aftermarket alarm. Will it get p*ssed off if I disconnect the battery?


Possibly, depends on the type of alarm....

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 29th Jan 2012 at 12:05
hsustyle

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Location: High Hurstwood

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Post #20
Tried it. The alarm was fine. It still idled high on startup and hesitation is still there after giving it all a good clean. It's gotta be lamda sensor.

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 29th Jan 2012 at 12:09
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

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Post #21
Try unplugging the lambda, and go for a drive.

Doing this will make the ECU run on it's "base map" from the factory which is there or thereabouts correct. If the car runs much better, then the lambda is goosed. However, be aware do not run the car like this for a long while. It will be using slightly more fuel and the excess fuel will not be doing the cylinder bores or catalytic converter (if you have one fitted) any good. You are simply carrying out this operation as a test to diagnose the lambda. Yes

Stan.

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 29th Jan 2012 at 12:34
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #22
high idle on cold startup wont be the lambda, however a lumpy idle when hot was found to be the lambda on this wallye.

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Posted 29th Jan 2012 at 13:40
hsustyle

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Location: High Hurstwood

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Post #23
True. It only seems to do the hesitation when warm.I think.. i never boot it when cold anyway so it may well do it then. Does seem to use a lot of fuel.. I'll try unplugging the lamda sensor for a few miles. Cleaning icv didn't seem to have made much difference.

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Beef Beyond Belief
Posted 29th Jan 2012 at 13:44

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