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Author Subject: snapped bleed nipples, favoured methods of removal?
jimmyhackers

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Location: birmingham

Registered: 14 Jun 2011

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Post #1
i have managed to wangle myself a gti for dirt cheap because of 4 snapped bleed nipples and brakes in need of serious bleeding. everything else on its fine (minus the tacky wheels, lexus lights and boy racer spoiler which have all been removed)

between applying heat, reverse drilling them out, easy outs, penetratign fluid, impact driver

which combination of each have people found best when tackling this problem?
have i missed any other sneaky ways?

any help/advice would be appreciated

thanks
james



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Posted 8th Jan 2012 at 03:48
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tvrfan007

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Registered: 29 May 2005

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Post #2
Replace the calipers with a known good set tbh. The fronts you may be able to salvage but the rears will prove tricky. You could try hammering a torx into the shank, but soak it for as long as possible in plus gas first.

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Posted 8th Jan 2012 at 08:42
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welshpug!

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Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #3
don't bother with easy outs or torx bits, get a series of small bits and take it easy, you don't want to damage the seat of the nipple.

use a low speed and lube the bits, work up to about 5.5mm (if the nipple is M7, which it is on the rears, can;t remember on the front) if central you should be able to collapse the remain of the thread in.


god knows how they snapped the fronts, thought they were M10 Shock

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Posted 8th Jan 2012 at 08:54
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heidi6

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Location: Cornwall

Registered: 30 Nov 2011

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Post #4
welshpug! wrote:
don't bother with easy outs or torx bits, get a series of small bits and take it easy, you don't want to damage the seat of the nipple.

use a low speed and lube the bits, work up to about 5.5mm (if the nipple is M7, which it is on the rears, can;t remember on the front) if central you should be able to collapse the remain of the thread in.


god knows how they snapped the fronts, thought they were M10 Shock


As above but if all else fail use a helicoil (can get kits the right size). As long as you lube them up it'll never need doing again.

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Posted 8th Jan 2012 at 13:27
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footah212

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Location: Paisley

Registered: 16 Sep 2010

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Post #5
tvrfan007 wrote:
You could try hammering a torx into the shank, but soak it for as long as possible in plus gas first.


I tried this and sheared the torx bit in the hole. There is now a peice of chrome vanadium wedged i there forever.

New calipers was the end result. Oh and a new torx bit for my socket set.

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Posted 9th Jan 2012 at 12:04
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jimmyhackers

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Location: birmingham

Registered: 14 Jun 2011

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Post #6
ive managed to loosen the fronts, and am working on the backs (got sidetracked with new paint and dismantling my other two cars for parts.

i read after googling that a man used the tiny dremmel discs to cut a groove in the top of the snapped nipple. this did cut into the caliper but not as to effect its workings. he then used a normal flathead screwriver in the groove created to remoove what was left of the nipple.

this might be a good method to try after you snap off a bit inside.

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Posted 18th Jan 2012 at 12:49
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fast_eddie

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Location: bradford

Registered: 21 Jan 2012

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Post #7
Carefully weld on a bolt to the snapped nipple and build up the weld to form a strong joint, then undo using correct spanner.

Easier with a tig welder but doable with a low power mig
Posted 3rd Mar 2012 at 02:11
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beez_neez_gt

Seasoned Pro

Location: @ de limit of adhesion !

Registered: 14 Oct 2008

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Post #8
welshpug! wrote:
don't bother with easy outs or torx bits, get a series of small bits and take it easy, you don't want to damage the seat of the nipple.

use a low speed and lube the bits, work up to about 5.5mm (if the nipple is M7, which it is on the rears, can;t remember on the front) if central you should be able to collapse the remain of the thread in.


god knows how they snapped the fronts, thought they were M10 Shock


I tried that on my 205 front calipers but the threads didn't collapse, would it be ok to tap it up ?

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Posted 3rd Mar 2012 at 07:59
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smegal

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Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

Posts: 5,940

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Post #9
footah212 wrote:
tvrfan007 wrote:
You could try hammering a torx into the shank, but soak it for as long as possible in plus gas first.


I tried this and sheared the torx bit in the hole. There is now a peice of chrome vanadium wedged i there forever.

New calipers was the end result. Oh and a new torx bit for my socket set.


Been there, done that.

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Now in a Megane R26
Posted 3rd Mar 2012 at 15:05
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buzzbrightyear

Seasoned Pro

Location: hiding all receipts for car

Registered: 09 Jul 2008

Posts: 11,894

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Post #10
jimmyhackers wrote:
ive managed to loosen the fronts, and am working on the backs (got sidetracked with new paint and dismantling my other two cars for parts.

i read after googling that a man used the tiny dremmel discs to cut a groove in the top of the snapped nipple. this did cut into the caliper but not as to effect its workings. he then used a normal flathead screwriver in the groove created to remoove what was left of the nipple.

this might be a good method to try after you snap off a bit inside.


I can't see a screwdriver working if it snapped to begin with and also snapped a Torque bit aswell.

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Posted 3rd Mar 2012 at 21:05
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jimmyhackers

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Location: birmingham

Registered: 14 Jun 2011

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Post #11
your right. The screw driver methods worked on one side......just. And on the second i bent the head of the screw driver :s i ordered two new reconned calipers in the end. And during fitting realised i have about another 3 jobs to do. The gti is gonna be sat dormant for a while Sad

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the world is changed by people in sheds
Posted 4th Mar 2012 at 15:05
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