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Author Subject: Trouble starting and idling
funkymonk

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Location: Westbury

Registered: 13 Jul 2006

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Post #1
URGENT PROBLEM - Last post of the thread, car won't run properly at all and sounds pretty sick! Any help much appreciated!

I had my head rebuilt a couple of months back, ever since it has been on the car it sounds like a diesel from somewhere up top. Took it down to Lynx for a couple of other little issues and Nick said it didn't sound too healthy but it's not a tapper, I've whipped the inlet cover off as that is where it seems to be coming from but don't really know what to look for.

Click for cam pic.

Noise is definitely cambelt end, cams look to be in good nick to me? Is the scuffed look on the shaft between the lobe normal? It has them all along so I'm guessing so.



This vid is from when the engine was first put in but shows how bad it is sounding.

Any help much appreciated it is doing my nut!!

Cheers

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 15:07
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #2
The grind marks on the shafts are where they remove excess metal left over from the casting process and nothing to worry about. I take it your plugs are ok and your coil-packs are'nt loose are they?

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 17:55
funkymonk

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Post #3
Ok, I did wonder how they would catch anything in there! Checked the plugs are torqued up, and coil packs are on nice and tight, even tried a new set of plugs and spare coils to make sure it wasn't them.

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 18:05
funkymonk

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Post #4
The noise is right up at the cambelt end, sounds the same with the cover on/off so I don't think anything is catching that. New water pump and tensioners, had the tension and timing checked. Can't see how a cam pulley could make that racket?

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 18:20
cjm_harris

Seasoned Pro

Location: Parts for Sale section

Registered: 04 Dec 2007

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Post #5
funkymonk wrote:
Can't see how a cam pulley could make that racket?


Have you checked the cam pulleys out? One of my cam pulleys decided to crack where the spoke joins the outer of the pulley (if that makes sense) so if yours has cracked and come away slightly it could make a tappy noise.

(Not sure if it is that, and cant listen to the video at work)

Worth a try, but I guess you have already checked them out?

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Chris
1999 China Gti6 Supercharged Devil [Fun car] >>Project Thread<<
2000 Bianca 306 Diesel [Work runabout]
Posted 8th Dec 2011 at 12:02
funkymonk

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Post #6
They appear to be ok, no cracks or anything. Got a bigger problem atm, just changed my MAP sensor and made sure all inlet bits and bobs were tight, checked continuity to the ecu plug from all my extended wiring and now it won't start at all! It's got a rebuilt head, new cambelt, new water pump, new ICV, MAP and tried two different TPS why won't the f*cking thing just work!! Battery is now on charge as it got bored of trying to start the POS.

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Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 17:08
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #7
check your inertia switch.

does sound shit though, might be exhaust related.

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Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 17:52
funkymonk

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Post #8
Checked the inertia switch, fuel pump is priming but it just won't catch. Not sure what I've disturbed! As the for the noise, I've checked the manifold is tight and it had a new pug gasket when I fitted it, whole exhaust is rubbish though, may be leaking a little from mani - cat joint.

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Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 18:18
funkymonk

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Post #9
Got the bugger started, was annoyingly simple just flooded. However it will not run properly on the new MAP sensor, refuses to idle, pig to start and doesn't sound like its firing on all 4 when it does.
So:
Original MAP - Long starting time, difficult to idle, bit of blue smoke when pumping throttle. Flagged up as reading too high and being knackered by Lynx.

Spare MAP (with loom connector changed) - Long time starting, even more difficult to get to idle, less smoke.

New MAP - Will not idle, very difficult to start with plenty of blue smoke, misfires and I think is what caused the engine to flood.

When it idles it is under 1000RPM and solid as you like, and very rarely will start and idle straight away. Can anyone confirm that the MAP wiring is 1-1, 2-2, 3-3 when changing the connector as it does run the opposite way to the old plug. So at the moment I have spent two days and some money only to end up just slightly worse than where I started, and the new part appears to make things much worse. Thoughts?

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Posted 12th Dec 2011 at 16:15
funkymonk

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Post #10
Right swapped the MAP back to the new one and it is magically working, I say working I am now back to the original problem of not starting or wanting to idle, lambda wouldn't make any difference to start up or cold running would it?

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Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 13:43
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #11
indeed not.

I would get a diagnostic check done., see what the live data comes back as.

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 13:53
funkymonk

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Post #12
Had it checked at Lynx only last Tuesday and all that came up was the high MAP reading and a slow lambda. As the symptoms are the same I imagine the MAP is still reading high, which should indicate an air leak which I would think must be between the TB and charger? In which case I have checked for leaks and everything is well sealed so I'm at a bit of a loss. Voltage across the MAP doesn't appear to drop below 2v whereas the sensor testing FAQ says it should fluctuate between 0.1-5v :S

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Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 15:40
funkymonk

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Post #13
Any more thoughts gents? New MAP has made it worse, getting truly fed up with it not running right!!

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Posted 17th Dec 2011 at 18:36
funkymonk

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Post #14
Now decided it is not going to run properly at all, misfiring badly I believe. Tried taking each coilpack connector off and each one makes a difference. It won't really rev above about 2000rpm and it was a real mission getting it back up the road!

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Posted 22nd Dec 2011 at 15:19
funkymonk

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Registered: 13 Jul 2006

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Post #15
Literally done nothing do it, bar leaving it alone for 2hrs and now it starts up like it has been for the last two months, poor starting and idling but drivable. Checked compression and got 198 205 200 200 so all looking good there!

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Posted 22nd Dec 2011 at 22:59

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