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Author Subject: coolant filter
jimmyhackers

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Post #1
having heard back form colin my engine coolant was heavvily sludged among other things (engine totaled). i will be keeping my coolant and the whole car under strict surveillance.

this could be another one of my mad ideas. so bear with me. i wouldnt mind a coolant filter

are they worth the effort? does anyone have one?

ive seen a few online and i think i could probably make a better one for next to nothing. (i could use magnets to filter out some of the debris)

i can forsee problems with them blocking. and maybe even collecting small debris and releaing it as much larger clumps. am i right in this forsite? im also guessing ill be told to stop being an idiot and change my coolant more often, which i plan on doing regardless.

if that is the general consensus im gonna have another mad idea here and see if a glass/perspex inspection tube is also a silly idea.

thanks

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 16:54
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #2
silly idea, just change it every 2 years and you'll be fine.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:05
jimmyhackers

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Post #3
i was thinking closer to every 2 months. can ill effect be had from changing the coolant to often?

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:07
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

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Post #4
yeah, you will be wasting your money.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:10
jimmyhackers

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Post #5
yeah there is that Razz i was thinking changing it a bit more frequently. as in when its looking brown do so. and reduce the frequency as the coolant stays cleaner? i have a feeling my car was rather unloved and can imagine the heater matrix amongst other things could still be harbouring some sludge.

i might not even need to. colin just rang me with the sound of my gti 6 purring with a new engine in the background (big smile on face). this one with its new rad should stay pretty clean Smile

thanks for the info

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:29
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

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Post #6
you have a head full of magic LOL

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:29
jimmyhackers

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Post #7
pity magic is a loads of illusionist bo***cks Sad

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:31
jimmyhackers

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Post #8
no offense to any magicians out there

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:32
owain

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Post #9
I'd thought about something similar actually. My fuel gauge (being a P1) is pretty ropey, whenever you go round a corner it goes off the scale either way and you never really know how much fuel you've got.

To get around this, I was thinking of removing the fuel tank and instead using a load of clear plastic polythene bags in the back (where the rear seats were) and daisy-chaining them together with some old washer hose. Cable tie up the tops (maybe with a bit of gaffa round them to be sure) and hey presto - you'll always be able to just look back and see exactly how much fuel you've got.

It also means that for long journeys it's not a problem - just buy another roll of bags from Asda and add them in.

If there's loads of shit in your coolant, don't filter it out. Figure out where it's coming from and fix the problem.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:38
atterz

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Post #10
Your a hero Owain.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:46
jimmyhackers

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Post #11
owain wrote:
If there's loads of shit in your coolant, don't filter it out. Figure out where it's coming from and fix the problem.


i dont know if i will have a problem with this new engine and rad. i can imagine the heater matrix could still harbour some. anywhere else to look if i do find this a reoccuring problem?

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:47
jimmyhackers

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Post #12
atterz wrote:
Your a hero Owain.


i too was quite impressed with the imagry and subcontext he used in his short story

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:48
owain

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Post #13
jimmyhackers wrote:
i can imagine the heater matrix could still harbour some. anywhere else to look if i do find this a reoccuring problem?


Seeing as coolant is so cheap, I'd just flush it through a few times. Fill it up, bleed it through with the engine running, drain it out and start again. Repeat until clear. I think you can get rad flush agents as well you could put in, although I've never tried them personally.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:49
jimmyhackers

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Post #14
im one generally against adatives etc. (rad ex destroyed my nova Sad )

ill just flush her through untill clear. thanks for the info and the amusing little story.

on a side note my fuel guage is a poo as it was on my 1.4. im guessing no "sensible" solutions have been found as yet?

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:52
owain

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Post #15
Changing the fuel tank for a P2/P3 one is apparently an improvement due to better design, I'm sure you're the man to come up with something more inventive though Wink

I agree on the additive mentality though, I've never been a fan myself. I only suggest it because they're only generally a problem on old cars where the rust and crap is literally plugging holes in everything, so once you've flushed it out you end up springing leaks all over the shop.

If you've got a new engine with a decent rad, it shouldn't be a problem.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 17:55
jimmyhackers

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Post #16
owain wrote:
Changing the fuel tank for a P2/P3 one is apparently an improvement due to better design, I'm sure you're the man to come up with something more inventive though Wink.


newer cars have foam instead of baffles in the fuel tank? retro fit this foam to an old fuel tank? Razz

and yeh i think the rad ex unplugged some shit and caused my 1.1 nova to get a nice headgasket go pop. emulsified oil con rod bearings gone, scored crank.

FIX: new con rod bearings, extra thik oil, sold to unsuspecting buyer who told me hed already destroyed 3 novas in 6 months of driving ( i didnt feel so bad as he said he was putting a 2.0 redtop in it)

then i went back to my 1.4 306, the most relaible car i know, ive owned it since i started driving and given it death since. and its still running. kinda hoped the gti6 would follow suit

how wrong i was Razz

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 18:03
monkeyman

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Post #17
I used Forte Coolant flush and Coolant conditioner last time I changed the coolant over about a year ago. I also used de-ionised water as the tap water round here is full of chalk.

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 19:05
adam b

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Post #18
monkeyman wrote:
I used Forte Coolant flush and Coolant conditioner last time I changed the coolant over about a year ago. I also used de-ionised water as the tap water round here is full of chalk.



Used Forte coolant flush on a mk1 golf engine where the oil/water matrix had gone. Worked well, but stank for ages after of strong detergent LOL

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 19:41
davedgti6

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Post #19
If the cooling system on your car was heavily sludged then it might be best to "reverse" flush the pipes, the coolent filter and viewing window are a mad idea by the way, once its been flushed just change the coolent every two years!

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 21:46
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #20
seeing as you're having a rebuilt engine, you should have any issues so no need to waste your time...

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 22:54
jimmyhackers

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Post #21
no worries. ill just keep on top of checking my coolant. the inspection glass tube idea was more a hm..........itd be quite cool (in my mind at least) to easiliy see the coolant bubbling round and what condition it was in.

i saw a company do it in a dub mag a while back (every pipe was see through though) and pointless as it seemed then i now see some merit in knowing what state you coolants in, and its flow rate. i could just take the rad cap off now n then but thats too easy and not the best off ideas if your cars just been sputting about etc.

seemed quite easy to do aswell. cut a hose, two jubilees + bit of pipe. job done.

might be one for when i eventually get that darned EWP Razz and i can see the difference in flow rate between a mechanical and electrical pump.

thanks for thhe info guys.

flush till clear then put in some nice distilled water and coolant

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Posted 6th Dec 2011 at 23:36
owain

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Post #22
jimmyhackers wrote:
i now see some merit in knowing what state you coolants


Bear in mind you'd only see bits and pieces if they were right at the edge of the pipe, there'd be all kinds of crap floating in the liquid you wouldn't be able to see.

As mentioned though it genuinely should never be an issue with a new engine, so you should be okay Yes

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 07:38
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #23
Meh, the thermal efficiency of dirty water will have next to no difference to that of clean coolant so who gives a shit? As long as theres enough antifreeze content not to crack the block on a cold morning then thats all you need to worry about. Unless you enjoy looking for random, meaningless things to 'improve'.

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 14:48
jimmyhackers

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Post #24
daveyboy wrote:
Unless you enjoy looking for random, meaningless things to 'improve'.


have you forgotten nearly every other thread ive posted? Razz

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Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 21:29
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #25
jimmyhackers wrote:
daveyboy wrote:
Unless you enjoy looking for random, meaningless things to 'improve'.


have you forgotten nearly every other thread ive posted? Razz



I was being ironic

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 7th Dec 2011 at 22:47

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