|
displaying posts 1 to 8 of 8
| Author | Subject: squeaky rear suspension :S |
 jimmyhackers
Seasoned Pro  Location: birmingham Registered: 14 Jun 2011 Posts: 1,099 Status: Offline |
Post #1
the rear torsion bar setup is very aqueaky and its rather embarrasing when driving  ive taken a 1.4 306 apart and lowered it so i have a pretty good idea of what the job entails. im guessing its it a case of taking it apart assesing extent of damage. hopfully its just moisture and perished seals. and needs some grease is there anything else it could be? or will a shed load of grease do  ________________________________________ the world is changed by people in sheds |
 Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 05:04
|
|
|
darkgti6
Seasoned Pro  Location: Bracknell Registered: 07 Jun 2008 Posts: 1,361 Status: Offline |
Post #2
are we talking about a squeek here or a creak? How old is the beam and has it been taken apart before?________________________________________ Team Peugeot Sport 308 Gti�Black T'99 Gti - may she rest in peace - written off in a shunt on the A329m |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 05:43
|
|
|
jimmyhackers
Seasoned Pro Location: birmingham Registered: 14 Jun 2011 Posts: 1,099 Status: Offline |
Post #3
16 years old, ex silverstone car, doesnt look like its ever been touched, will be a "joy" to dimantle its a loud creak and lots of other little squeaks. the vibrations can be felt the most on the tube that houses the anti roll bar mainly on the passenger side. the wheel on that side does look slightly out of alignment compared to the other wheel. however my drive is slanted so i could be wrong. i replaced the front suspension with coilovers last weekend and that has made it quieter. but i figure thats just becuase the cars not wobbling and rolling and bouncing about due to crappy 16 year old shagged front suspension. anyone fancy writing me a shopping list including prices of what i could need to rectify? ________________________________________ the world is changed by people in sheds |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 05:52
|
|
|
darkgti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Bracknell Registered: 07 Jun 2008 Posts: 1,361 Status: Offline |
Post #4
At that age the beams failed by the sounds of it. Time for an overhaul.Speak to miles on here. He can supply you with pretty much everything you will need I think. Hopefully the beam will still be salvageable. Sometimes the bearings can disintegrate and the arm shafts start wearing out the inside of the tube which is what happened to mine. Then the new bearings cant be seated properly. Of the top of my head you need a miles rebuild kit which gives you all the consumables you need like seals and bearings which is about 75 quid and 2 new arm shafts from miles again which are 70 quid each. If there is any wear on the old arm shafts replace them without question. A rough surface will knacker new bearings very quickly and you'll be back doing the same job again very soon. Best thing to do is to do it properly once imo. It will probably be a b*tch to get apart. I had to get the tb's pressed out of the trailing arms and one of my anti roll bar end plates was stuck on the antiroll bar so i had to buy a new one (i put a hybrid antiroll bar in) Also I had trouble getting the old bearings out and didnt feel confident pressing the new ones in so I got miles to do it in the end. ________________________________________ Team Peugeot Sport 308 Gti�Black T'99 Gti - may she rest in peace - written off in a shunt on the A329m |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 06:08
|
|
|
jimmyhackers
Seasoned Pro Location: birmingham Registered: 14 Jun 2011 Posts: 1,099 Status: Offline |
Post #5
sounds wonderful  how much to get someone to do it all for me? im in the birmingham area so a localish garage/person would be preferable. i would tackle it myself but due to the nature of my work im away for weeks on end. would be nice to hand it over and come back a week later and find its all sorted by somone who knows what there doing and has the correct tools. my method of seating bearings usually envolves a block of wood and a lump hammer ________________________________________ the world is changed by people in sheds |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 15:01
|
|
|
smegal
Seasoned Pro  Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #6
It can cost anywhere in between 150 and 350 depending on what's wrong with it.________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 15:33
|
|
|
jimmyhackers
Seasoned Pro Location: birmingham Registered: 14 Jun 2011 Posts: 1,099 Status: Offline |
Post #7
smegal wrote: It can cost anywhere in between 150 and 350 depending on what's wrong with it. that seems resonable cheers for the info ________________________________________ the world is changed by people in sheds |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 17:02
|
|
|
smegal
Seasoned Pro Location: Leeds Registered: 26 Dec 2005 Posts: 5,940 Status: Offline |
Post #8
I had mine done at Mechanical_Repairs in Leicester. Mine was at the higher end as it needed a new pin (Mine has groves from the needle bearings) and some twat had welded everything together.The car feels so much better now. ________________________________________ Ex SC-6Now in a Megane R26 |
|
Posted 4th Jul 2011 at 18:48
|
|
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.