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Author Subject: ARB end plate wont come off!!!!!!!!!!
lammylama

Regular

Location: godstone

Registered: 17 Nov 2009

Posts: 228

Status: Offline

Post #1
First bloody job i do on my new 6 goes tits up FFS!!!!.....attempting to fit my new hybrid arb and i had trouble getting the end plate off one end of the old bar.I tried winding out the n/s plate but wouldnt budge so tried the drivers side which came out fine,i then pulled the arb out and tried to remove the n/s plate again. It just wont budge at all for some reason,ive actually stripped the thread in the plate with the M12 bolt Angry ive bashed it and even heated it up and its not budging still.....so now i have a car with a new ARB fitted with no end plates on it so i now have no car to use...aaarrrrrgggghhhh!!!!!!!!

Ive put a wanted post in the appropriate section but if anyone has a n/s ARB end plate thats off the bar please let me know as i need one yesterday!!
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 18:27
matt evans

Seasoned Pro

Location: Stourbridge

Registered: 16 Sep 2009

Posts: 2,290

Status: Offline

Post #2
The splines can be rusted like buggery and its nigh on impossible to budge them

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honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 19:10
lammylama

Regular

Location: godstone

Registered: 17 Nov 2009

Posts: 228

Status: Offline

Post #3
thats whats happened mate...now im stuck until i get another plate.....ive just had another go and it aint going nowhere!!!!!!!
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 20:16
matt evans

Seasoned Pro

Location: Stourbridge

Registered: 16 Sep 2009

Posts: 2,290

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Post #4
Both mine were siezed, i ended up cutting the one off in order to get the ARB out. Luckily i had a spare one to use....

________________________________________

1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 20:21
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #5
Big vice + big drift + big hammer + copious ammounts of oxy/acetylene = WIN

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Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 20:50
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

Status: Offline

Post #6
you did use an M12 x 1.5 bolt not a standard 1.75 pitch thread didn't you?

you can use it just fine without the ARB, it'll just lean a bit LOL

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Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 21:24
lammylama

Regular

Location: godstone

Registered: 17 Nov 2009

Posts: 228

Status: Offline

Post #7
daveyboy wrote:
Big vice + big drift + big hammer + copious ammounts of oxy/acetylene = WIN


No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = NO WIN lol
Posted 12th Mar 2011 at 21:49
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #8
EFA

lammylama wrote:
No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = I FAIL


LOL

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 14th Mar 2011 at 14:47
l_e_cook

Newbie

Location: gt yarmouth

Registered: 31 Jan 2011

Posts: 28

Status: Offline

Post #9
quote:
No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = NO WIN lol


No vice,no big drift and no oxy/aceylene = FAIL!!!! Lol
Posted 23rd Mar 2011 at 04:07
clen666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

Posts: 2,401

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Post #10
I don't suppose anyone has come up with a miraculous new method to remove these have they?

I am also of the 'no win/ fail' group, being without any of the heavy-duty tools mentioned above, and using the bolt just isn't budging it.

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Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 20:55
pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #11
Not the quickest method but if you blather it in WD40 or similar and leave for a day they will come off alright. Like has been said, they get rusted on, so soak em in oil and leave it to penetrate. Strangely one side always seem to come off easily and the other is a pain...

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Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:05
clen666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

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Post #12
I've left it soaking so will try again tomorrow.

One problem is the threads on the right side plate are basically flat with rust and I'm struggling to clear them. Hopefully that is the easier side once I can get them clear!

Are the plates still available from pug should I completely feck them?

________________________________________

Team 'unintentional rat look'
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:13
jord294

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Location: somewhere in north wales

Registered: 09 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,103

Status: Offline

Post #13
£45 each the end plates

i must of been really lucky lately. as the last few 306 beams i've stripped, the caps have come off easy from both sides

i've also found that not any m12 x 1.50 bolt will do

i now use a front brake caliper bolt, to start things, and then a rear caliper bolt to get the full distance

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Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:18
monkeyman

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Location: Sunny St Albans

Registered: 01 Oct 2008

Posts: 1,955

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Post #14
Penetrating oil or diesel are both good at loosening things. Put a dab of copper grease onto the ends before refitting to reduce future siezures.

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Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:24
clen666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

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Post #15
Shock how much?!

that's interesting about the caliper bolts though, I was just using a random 8.8 m12 x 1.5 bolt and it started to deform its threads before any movement of the plate

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Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:30
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

Status: Offline

Post #16
I use a pug XU Iron block head bolt with the end ground so its flat Smile

I don't think I've ever had an issue removing one, the left hand end p[late is always a little tougher as its pulled fully onto the splines whereas the r/h is not.

Any penetrating stuff tbh is useless due to the tight fit and access to the splines, heat will suffice if necessary though Big grin Ninja

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:31
clen666

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Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

Posts: 2,401

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Post #17
Hmm suppose I'll just have to concentrate on the right side then.

Any tips on clearing the threads? I don't have access to a tap but may need to invest in a set

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Team 'unintentional rat look'
Posted 13th Oct 2011 at 21:40
clen666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Co. Durham

Registered: 12 Feb 2009

Posts: 2,401

Status: Offline

Post #18
Managed to get the threads cleared and the plate off using jord's method of using caliper bolts, cheers for the advice fellas.

Just those bloody torsion bars to deal with now...

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Team 'unintentional rat look'
Posted 14th Oct 2011 at 13:01
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

Status: Offline

Post #19
Update to and old thread as I'm having the same issue. Tried everything to get the plates off but neither will move and the threads are non-existent on both sides (M12x1.5 bolt basically slides straight in).

We've tried heat and chisels and the damn things won't move.

Any ideas?

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 18:47
Niall

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Location: Epsom

Registered: 06 Jun 2012

Posts: 1,941

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Post #20
i also had this issue the other day when fitting my new TBs. Luckily i could just rotate the ARB to get the bars in/out but i would like to do a beam refurb soon which would require me taking the ARB out so any suggestions for doing it on the car would be good!
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 19:07
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #21
Niall wrote:
i also had this issue the other day when fitting my new TBs. Luckily i could just rotate the ARB to get the bars in/out but i would like to do a beam refurb soon which would require me taking the ARB out so any suggestions for doing it on the car would be good!


Probably doing the same as me, I'm rebuilding the beam for the hybrid ARB and bigger TBs. Once TB came out really easily but the other seems to be stuck firm. Turning in to a right PITA this is!

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 19:10
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

Status: Offline

Post #22
put a bolt in the rhs and beat it inwards if there are no threads left, punch the arb right out of the plate through the beam.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 19:47
demondriverdan

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Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

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Post #23
That was my next plan. Think I'm going to use a centre punch instead as it's probably stronger than the bolt Smile

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Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 20:51
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

Status: Offline

Post #24
nah, centre punch too small and brittle

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 21:10
demondriverdan

Seasoned Pro

Location: Londinium

Registered: 29 Nov 2010

Posts: 2,665

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Post #25
We've got some pretty big punches (came as part of a chisel set). Worth a shot anyway.

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car
Posted 29th Dec 2012 at 21:13

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