displaying posts 1 to 13 of 13

Author Subject: Worrying gearbox noise *Video*
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

Status: Offline

Post #1
Santa gave me a f*cked gearbox for Christmas Roll eyes

On Christmas eve, went into town and there was a slight rattly noise coming from the engine bay area. To be honest at first I thought it was a loose heatshield from the cat area. It suddenly got louder as I reached town, 2 miles later. Pulled over to hear this:



Nice.

Is it a horrific meltdown of the gearbox internals (that's what it sounds like)? Or is it anything to do with the clutch assembly?

Additional clues with which to work out an answer:
-Highly likely to be the original clutch, on 142,000 miles.
-Selecting gears is still possible but is very notchy and 3rd *almost* crunches.
-The clutch does not slip.
-Cluch pedal has been stiff for ages.
-I've had low-level clutch judder for ages when setting off.
-When stationary, in neutral and with the clutch engaged, the noise is apparent.
-When stationary, in neutral and the clutch is disengaged the noise stops.
-When driving in any gear, clutch engaged, the noise is apparent.
-When coasting with the clutch disengaged the noise is still apparent. Drive shafts are turning the diff/gears - is it therefore gear/cog realed?

I'm braced for an expensive repair, do your worst LOL
Posted 29th Dec 2010 at 02:42
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,808

Status: Offline

Post #2
f*cking f*cked clutch bearing Thumbs up

new clutch time, don't forget the clutch arm bushes and a new cable Smile

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 29th Dec 2010 at 02:50
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

Status: Offline

Post #3
welshpug! wrote:
f*cking f*cked clutch bearing Thumbs up

new clutch time, don't forget the clutch arm bushes and a new cable Smile


Cheers dood Happy

My father and I had an inkling it was the clutch assembly, even though it sounds like it's a more serious component. It's the lesser of two evils I suppose! I plan to do the whole shebang on it TBH: cable, bushes, driveshaft oil seals etc.
Posted 29th Dec 2010 at 02:55
Paddy Power Turbo Banned!

Location: galway/ireland

Registered: 24 Feb 2009

Posts: 628

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Post #4
Huh? Huh? Huh? Huh? thank god u put this vid up Thumbs up its the same as my rallye i tought the gearbox was f*cked Whistle cheers pal

where can i get all those parts from i want to do my shafts seals aswell ?

________________________________________

TEAM(FIGHTIN IRISH)COMIN TO A PUB NEAR YOU !!!!
ps3 online name : butcherboy200
dyno print out : 185.4 at the flywheel
modern warfare 2 Wink
Posted 29th Dec 2010 at 19:34
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

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Post #5
seanys 306 rallye wrote:
Huh? Huh? Huh? Huh? thank god u put this vid up Thumbs up its the same as my rallye i tought the gearbox was f*cked Whistle cheers pal

where can i get all those parts from i want to do my shafts seals aswell ?


You know what? I read your recent threads about 'box woes and wondered if mine was the same noise! Thought I'd rather clarify with a vid to make sure though Dry

I'm going to get myself a shiny new Valeo clutch kit and all the associated parts/consumables from Peugeot I think. I won't have the 'box off again anytime soon so require the parts to last. I'm hoping Mr Jenks can provide a fine discount when the time comes Whistle

Anyway, glad you've got an answer to your own problem too. Smile
Posted 29th Dec 2010 at 22:38
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,808

Status: Offline

Post #6
bar the clutch kit anything else you need is pretty cheap tbh. (bushes are less than 2)

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 30th Dec 2010 at 03:24
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

Status: Offline

Post #7
Had the 'box off today and noticed very minor weeping of engine oil from behind the flywheel, so I think I'm going to change the seal. When I'm actually changing the seal, will all/some of my engine oil pour out? LOL I need to know whether to drain the sump first!

Do I need to fabricate a tool for locking the flywheel teeth (as Haynes suggests) when removing it, or will the inertia and compression of the engine be enough to undo and re-torque the bolts considering they're only 50nm each?

I was experiencing judder when setting off in 1st with my old clutch and have read that this is often down to the flywheel. Is it prudent, considering the 'box is off, to get this machined at the same time? Or may the old clutch assembly be the sole cause of the judder?

Cheers Smile
Posted 16th Jan 2011 at 02:33
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

Posts: 7,759

Status: Offline

Post #8
Yeah it's a good idea to have the flywheel friction surface skimmed while everything is apart. If you've got the cash to splash you could put a billet one in.

I've never had a problem with the flywheel bolts without the engine locked so you should be okay.

No worries with the oil either, it'll be nowhere near the crank seal after the oil has settled after switching the engine off.

________________________________________

Rich
Posted 16th Jan 2011 at 01:35
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

Status: Offline

Post #9
Rich E wrote:
Yeah it's a good idea to have the flywheel friction surface skimmed while everything is apart. If you've got the cash to splash you could put a billet one in.

I've never had a problem with the flywheel bolts without the engine locked so you should be okay.

No worries with the oil either, it'll be nowhere near the crank seal after the oil has settled after switching the engine off.


Brilliant, cheers for that. As much as I'd like the lightened flywheel, I'm trying to keep a lid on the costs to an extent.
Posted 16th Jan 2011 at 02:31
bigbadbowen

Seasoned Pro

Location: Winchester

Registered: 21 Nov 2003

Posts: 13,745

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Post #10
Do you need a very good condition used clutch bud if your keeping costs down ? I have pics I can send over but it is very much like brand new ?

Cheers

Chris
Posted 16th Jan 2011 at 02:35
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

Status: Offline

Post #11
Hey Chris, thanks for the offer but I've sourced a new Valeo unit for the job. The costs are staying down in relation to a 200+ lightened flywheel, but they're staying up in relation to long term component durability, ie: seals, bushes and the unit itself. Trying hard to strike a good balance Roll eyes

Cheers anyway dude Thumbs up
Posted 16th Jan 2011 at 02:39
Paddy Power Turbo Banned!

Location: galway/ireland

Registered: 24 Feb 2009

Posts: 628

Status: Offline

Post #12
hey how did ya get on fittin ur clutch n stuff ,where did ya get the bushes n seals as i need to get some aswell

________________________________________

TEAM(FIGHTIN IRISH)COMIN TO A PUB NEAR YOU !!!!
ps3 online name : butcherboy200
dyno print out : 185.4 at the flywheel
modern warfare 2 Wink
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 01:16
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 940

Status: Offline

Post #13
seanys 306 rallye wrote:
hey how did ya get on fittin ur clutch n stuff ,where did ya get the bushes n seals as i need to get some aswell


Hey Seany, I'm still in the process as I can only fix the car at weekends due to my working hours. Dry

I ordered these from Peugeot:

- A genuine Valeo clutch kit (2051 T2)
- Both fork bearings (2175 54 and 2175 55 - cost pence and really worth doing)
- Both driveshaft oil seals (3121 44 and 3121 46), optional; one of mine was leaking slightly.
- 2 litres of Total BV 75W80 oil
- Left crank seal (0127 28), optional; mine was slightly leaking.
- 8 new flywheel bolts (8 of 0537 40), beacuse the flywheel's off for machining work.

Also:
- New clutch cable from GSF.
- New pinch bolts from Mr Swampy.

I followed Welly's ye olde thread and after researching the pitfalls of the 'box removal procedure on previous threads, I bent the clutch arm up slightly to allow enough movement because there was no way the pin was coming out. Once the box is off, the pin can be tapped through from the other side easily enough. The gearbox mount stud was a f*cker, so out came the hacksaw. Hope to procure a replacement soon! Whistle

Other than that, it's straightforward. I've managed fine on my own (sans an engine hoist or even a 2nd trolley jack!) the whole time. LOL

Enjoy Smile
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 02:34

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