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Author Subject: Cleaning Spark Plugs: Advice Please
rallyestyle

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Location: London

Registered: 23 Jul 2003

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Post #1
Anyone know much about cleaning the spark plugs?

Been having issues with the rallye and it wouldnt start so the engine ended up flooded with fuel. Took the spark plugs out and they have fuel all over them, also they are black with carbon deposits which might be something to do with the other intermittant running issue i was having.

Anyhow i need to clean/dry the spark plugs up and get them back in, whats the best way to do this? Just with a cloth or some fairy liquid or something? Unsure Laugh

Cheers all Thumbs up

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:28
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #2
small wire brush (most places do small plug cleaning brass ones) stick them in the oven for a bit.

otherwise just chuck another set in?

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Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:33
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

Posts: 7,757

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Post #3
Some light discolouration is normal. If they have carbon build-up then just bin them and fit some new ones.

As for the fuel it should evaporate quickly on its own but just dry them with a rag or bit of tissue if you want to.

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Rich
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:33
rallyestyle

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Post #4
Cool cheers, im in a pickle so cant really get any new ones at the mo Sad They are top dog NGK ones that i have probably done less than 10k on them which is annoying Doh

I will give them a clean and them let them dry off before getting them back in and seeing what happens. Just charging the battery at the moment so have a while to wait.

Any ideas what the most likely cause of the plugs coking up is? It was running lean last time i had it on the rollers so something must be causing it to run rich now right?

Cheers

________________________________________

Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:40
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #5
just chuck some boggo NGK's in? they're only a tenner!

cold weather and short runs will make it run rich, as will lambda dying and CTS.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:46
rallyestyle

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Post #6
welshpug! wrote:
just chuck some boggo NGK's in? they're only a tenner!

cold weather and short runs will make it run rich, as will lambda dying and CTS.


Cheers Thumbs up

I cant get to halfords/factors at the mo as i dont have another car i can use Doh

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:53
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #7
can you still walk? Razz

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 19:56
rallyestyle

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Post #8
welshpug! wrote:
can you still walk? Razz


Its a long walk LOL Plus its like an ice rink out there, tricky enough just walking to the car Laugh

They have cleaned up pretty nicely and am just letting them dry off. Given the freezing temps outside should i give the plug chambers some hot air action with a hairdryer to make sure they are all dry too?

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 20:18
cwspellowe

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Location: Calderbank

Registered: 19 Jul 2009

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Post #9
just crank it over with the coil packs and injectors disconnected to pump out the fuel.

I had to heat my plugs with a lighter for a few minutes to get it to fire up again

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Bye bye Sundance Kid Sad
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 20:40
rallyestyle

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Post #10
Well it started, chugged a bit, then went mental with the revs like i had the pedal to the floor Doh Obviously had to turn it off then and there, tried again and the same thing happened Sad Got me scratching my head this one! Will have to leave it until tomorrow now as its fecking freezing outside and pitch black!

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 21:57
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #11
ICV stuck open?

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Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 21:59
greenbelt

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Post #12
Check your accelerator cable isn't seized Tom. Either that or a leak from one of the boost pipes.

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Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 22:24
rallyestyle

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Post #13
greenbelt wrote:
Check your accelerator cable isn't seized Tom. Either that or a leak from one of the boost pipes.


Cheers, after thinking about it it may be one of the boost pipes, it was dropped off on a low loader a few weeks ago so they could have knocked something! Cant believe i havent driven it for like 2 months now!!!

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 22:34
rallyestyle

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Post #14
welshpug! wrote:
ICV stuck open?


Possible too, will check Thumbs up

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 22:35
greenbelt

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Post #15
rallyestyle wrote:
greenbelt wrote:
Check your accelerator cable isn't seized Tom. Either that or a leak from one of the boost pipes.


Cheers, after thinking about it it may be one of the boost pipes, it was dropped off on a low loader a few weeks ago so they could have knocked something! Cant believe i havent driven it for like 2 months now!!!


Tell me about it! My car has been driven twice since the beginning of september when I started the engine rebuild Dry

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Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 22:38
davedgti6

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Post #16
Are you using the colder iridium plugs?, if so if the car is being a b*tch to start then the plugs foul up easier than a normal plug (due to them not getting hot enough) and make starting near impossible, happened to me and once there fouled there fooked really, best get a new set and find out why the car is hard to start Smile

From NGK website :-

Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.

If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.

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Team Supercharged Gti-6 Ninja
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 23:04
rallyestyle

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Post #17
That sounds spot on dave, i think you may have hit the nail on the head with the issues i was having Thumbs up

New plugs it is Yes

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Just Drive It
Posted 27th Dec 2010 at 23:36
rallyestyle

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Post #18
New plugs in but still cant sort the overevving issue out, why does it have to be so fricking cold Sad Its nothing to do with the accelerator cable so its got to be something electronic telling the engine to rev its nuts off.

Can i take the ICV off to test that?

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Just Drive It
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 14:10
cwspellowe

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Post #19
Not sure where it is on a boosted setup but aye, it's held on by two 10mm bolts. Remove it and you'll see two torx bolts holding the two halves together.

When you split it you'll see a 90degree elbow in one half and a plunger in the other. Give everything a clean and oil and make sure the plunger slides ok.

When refitting it, turn the key to the ignition position but don't start the car. Turn it back off and repeat a couple of times, helps the plunger in the ICV reset itself before you start it up Smile

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Bye bye Sundance Kid Sad
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 15:08
rallyestyle

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Post #20
Thanks Chris Smile

It has to be on the car to start then? Just wondering what would happen if i started it without the ICV Dunno

I changed the ICV a few years ago, not the cheapest so hopefully a good clean will do the job Yes

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Just Drive It
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 15:37
smegal

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Post #21
DO NOT FIT STANDARD PLUGS. Well at least for any length of time. You may be able to get cooler ones from a motor factors though.

That is probably one of the reasons for Birk melting so many engines.

How does it drive? Could it be sucking air in from a boost leak after the SC? They run a hell of a vacuum when not under high throttle.

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Ex SC-6

Now in a Megane R26
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 15:42
rallyestyle

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Registered: 23 Jul 2003

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Post #22
Dont worry Craig i got some replacement cooler plugs off the net Smile

It wont drive mate, i literally start it, it chugs for 2 seconds before suddenly revs shoot up as if i have my foot to the floor. Have to turn it off sharpo before it damages the very cold engine Doh

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Just Drive It
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 16:10
gti-dan

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 03 Jan 2010

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Post #23
this is the problem i have at the moment - see thread - Help engine revving its bo***cks off - i hoped it was an electrical problem but im pretty sure it must have been an air leak - i had removed and refitted the inlet manifold. I have removed it again and this appears to be the case - yet to refit it but the symptoms were exactly the same as yours. Check there are no air leaks anywhere.
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 18:58
rallyestyle

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Post #24
Thanks dan i will have a look Yes Not had the manifold off recently though so will have to check elsewhere for air leaks Yes

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Just Drive It
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 19:49
cwspellowe

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Post #25
Wouldn't run without the ICV, if you left the hole open it would effectively be a mahooosive air leak, if you plugged it the engine would starve of oxygen at closed throttle

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Bye bye Sundance Kid Sad
Posted 31st Jan 2011 at 23:11

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