displaying posts 1 to 18 of 18

Author Subject: Engine rebuilds - how hard can they be...?
owain

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Post #1
Not easy I'd suspect Wink

For some time now I've been planning on extending my garage into a workshop and getting myself a nice little track car. Long story short, should be hopefully getting started on this in the next few months. The idea is to get a GTI-6 and strip it out. I'd like to do as much work as possible myself, I'm cursed with my Dad's way of thinking that I'd rather spend money I don't have on equipment and do a job badly myself rather than pay someone else to do it - even if that means spending £100 on a tool to do a job that a garage would've charged me £20 to do.

Now, a question for the mechanics amongst you - realistically, how much of this work would I be able to do myself? I've never stripped down an engine myself but I'm more than capable of wielding a spanner when I need to and changing alternators, pipes, interior stuff etc etc. I know a decent amount of theory on the internals but just haven't had the chance to play. Essentially it seems as long as you're willing to get your hands dirty most tasks are simply a case of taking everything apart then putting it back to where you found it.

However I'm aware that engine internals are a whole different ball game - in fact it's one of the appeals of the '6 that it's a relatively simple engine so my chances of failure are somewhat lower.

Would those of you who know these cars say it's a do-able job if you're sensible? Or is it a case of if you haven't spent years blowing up engines then don't even bother, because something WILL go wrong? I'm all up for breaking stuff, it's a track car not my road car so any issues aren't going to be the end of the world.

I'd just be interested in people's opinions really so I can start getting rough ideas of what I could do with the car, what jobs I'd need to outsource, etc.

Same goes for welding actually - I've done some arc welding before which was effective but messy, I'm sure I'd improve with practise mind. I've never done MIG welding but would also be interested to know what people's opinions are on learning to do that. If I can convince my dad he needs lots of metal stuff I might be able to get him to go halves on some welding kit Wink

Sorry for the relatively pointless post, I've just been reading through every thread in the projects section and I've gone and gotten myself all worked up...

Cheers in advance people.
O.

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 04:23
jonnywilcock

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Location: wigan

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Post #2
As far as tools go my trusty halfords 150pc set hasnt let me down bar a few snapped sockets but easly exchanged at the store with the life time guarantee you get with it!

stripping an engine is no problem at all its putting it back together that might hit you, but label stuff up as much as possible or take pictures along the way and your laughing.
if you do need help no doubt people on here will happily give it to you!

One thing to consider is getting the head skimmed.


edit: halfords 150pc tool set is on sale again in halfords for £100 Wink
Posted 2nd May 2010 at 06:26
smighall

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Post #3
As long as you have patience and time and don't rush things it's all easy. Get the head skimmed regardless, and a bit of plastiguage if you're properly stripping engine to check what size big end bearings you need and you'll be fine Wink

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 06:35
aaron6

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Post #4
Yeah do it. I had a crack at my birds TU engined citroen zx as the cambelt snapped. Nothing was difficult, just time consuming due to a touch of self doubt thats all. But all is good, it still runs, is better on fuel and i saved a bomb! As for welding, if you can MMA you'll take to mig easily. Its just a case of point and squirt once its set up right. Takes a little bit practice but once you've done a bit you'll see its easy. Smile

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 14:34
jonnie205

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Post #5
It not too hard to do but very time consuming, you will need patience and attention to detail. Mig welding is hard to do nicely on cars. The metal is thin and access is often hard. Practise on scrap metal not straight onto your car
Posted 2nd May 2010 at 17:10
smegal

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Post #6
aaron6 wrote:
Yif you can MMA you'll take to mig easily. Its just a case of point and squirt once its set up right. Takes a little bit practice but once you've done a bit you'll see its easy. Smile


It takes a little while to set it up right though.

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 17:16
darkgti6

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Post #7
Ive been up for this for sometime - and now ive got my own place maybe I could have a crack Hmm

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 18:24
720puggti

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Post #8
Hiya Owain,

I'm just going to echo jonnie205 and smighall's comments about having patience. Because if you want to do it properly there's sometimes a fair bit of waiting involved; whether that is waiting for parts, parts that don't shift, cleaning things up and more than likely things breaking.

The gti6 engine's cylinder head is quite easy to mess up when timing it up too; you can bend the valves so easily - I know because I did. And they look completely straight until you measure them.

I don't know whether you browsed my own thread (you can find it by clicking on the "Work carried out in west london" link in my signature) but I've rebuilt my engine and pretty much everything you need to do is in it. Hope it helps mate.

By the way, it can also get expensive, especially (and my advice is you should) use original parts.

Hope my comments helped Smile

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 19:07
owain

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Post #9
Hi people

Thanks for your comments, that's given me a bit more confidence in myself - I appreciate what you're all saying about the patience required also. I'm always prepared for lots of getting hands dirty and breaking stuff.

Deepak - yes I've been reading your thread in detail and learned some very handy hints!

I also found out there's a college down the road that does evening classes in welding, so that might be worth doing. Much as I'd love to be able to do much of the work myself I'd never feel comfortable say welding in a roll cage without any idea if I was doing it right or not!

Cheers again for the advice people, just need to build the workshop now...

O.

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Posted 2nd May 2010 at 20:47
owain

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Post #10
Another quick thought on this - how many times can you skim a head before you need to start going for thicker gaskets and bodges? I know the difference between high- and low- compression pistons is fairly minimal in the grand scheme of things, but I don't know how much material they take off during a skim.

Just wondering how many times I can screw up the engine before it gives up on me and I need a new head Wink

Cheers
O.

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Posted 3rd May 2010 at 20:30
khj100

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Post #11
I seem to remember than an totally un-skimmed head has about 22 thousands of an inch clearance at full valve extension (don't remember where that piece of knowledge came from though!).

Just make sure you know how much is taken off each time it's skimmed (the machinist should be able to tell you)

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Posted 3rd May 2010 at 20:38
owain

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Post #12
Blimey, 22 thou? Nothing like cutting it fine, eh? That's some handy info, cheers matey.

PS just watched your ring lap, very much makes me want to get a car sorted so I can get out there again!

O.

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Posted 3rd May 2010 at 21:03
khj100

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Post #13
owain wrote:
Blimey, 22 thou? Nothing like cutting it fine, eh? That's some handy info, cheers matey.

PS just watched your ring lap, very much makes me want to get a car sorted so I can get out there again!

O.


LOL It's yet to be proven whether it's useful information or not! I could be talking utter rubbish.

And cheers on the video - i'm looking forward to getting the old girl back out at Anglesey in a couple of weeks! Hyper

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Posted 3rd May 2010 at 21:06
owain

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Post #14
Ah I see, I hadn't considered it might just be a complete lie! Wink

Trackday, trackday, trackday indeed.

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Posted 3rd May 2010 at 21:07
adam b

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Post #15
Have a search for TDC in thread titles to give you an idea on the valve-piston clearances. The head can't be skimmed much at all.

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Posted 3rd May 2010 at 21:13
rudolf

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Post #16
khj100 wrote:
I seem to remember than an totally un-skimmed head has about 22 thousands of an inch clearance at full valve extension (don't remember where that piece of knowledge came from though!)



I thought it had been quoted before as around 2mm or 80 thou?

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Posted 4th May 2010 at 03:46
owain

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Post #17
Either way it looks like irritatingly I might have to apply some kind of skill rather than just repeat trial and error Wink

Cheers for the input people.

O.

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Posted 4th May 2010 at 12:58
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

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Post #18
If you are skimming the head and stripping the engine, that's the ideal time to sort out some decent valve reliefs or pockets, you need'nt worry about loss of compression as the skim will more than make up for plus you will be able to safely advance the cam timing without worrying about piston to valve contact.

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Posted 4th May 2010 at 13:59

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