displaying posts 1 to 24 of 24

Author Subject: undoing brake bleed nipples.
cliff7110

Junior User

Location: derby

Registered: 31 May 2009

Posts: 65

Status: Offline

Post #1
am going to bleed the brakes on the car tomorrow and have pre soaked the nipples in wd40. its been a long time since they were last undone so do want to risk shearing them. would it be ok to use an electic impact gun to take shock them off or is it a big no no?

any help would be great
cheers
Cliff
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 20:57
mr swampy s16

**BAD SELLER**

Location: out and about

Registered: 22 Oct 2003

Posts: 10,550

Status: Offline

Post #2
No!
I use a deep socket on a qtr drive and never sheared one yet
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 21:10
phillipm

Seasoned Pro

Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

Status: Offline

Post #3
^^^ 6-sided socket on a ¼" drive and shock it loose rather than just applying pressure, 99% of them come out fine then.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 21:16
cliff7110

Junior User

Location: derby

Registered: 31 May 2009

Posts: 65

Status: Offline

Post #4
ok will do that.
so give the rachet a good tap with the hammer?
Posted 8th Apr 2010 at 21:19
tvrfan007

Seasoned Pro

Location: In the garage

Registered: 29 May 2005

Posts: 3,488

Status: Offline

Post #5
No harm in giving the nipple a lovetap before applying your good 6 sided socket.

________________________________________

I'm Si btw Tee hee

Night Blue VW Golf GTD
Bianca LBSC Rallye - Track/Road Slag Project Thread
Sparkling Silver Mini Cooper D - Super Dooper Superman - (The other half's wheels)
Posted 13th Apr 2010 at 07:28
sixygti2

Seasoned Pro

Location: Tunbridge Wells

Registered: 21 Apr 2007

Posts: 2,778

Status: Offline

Post #6
Well thought I'd use this instead of my own thread.

Whilst trying to undo the rear nipple, it did shear off as has happened so many times before.

I want to try and get what's left out hopefully by hammering n a torx bit or something, but I was wondering if its ok to spray WD40 around what's left of the nipple with the hole going straight into the caliper.

It wont cause any harm/damage if it gets in will it? Unsure

Tanks

________________________________________

Still watching you...
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 04:31
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 948

Status: Offline

Post #7
If the nipple didn't turn at all before it sheared (which I'm guessing is the case) then the hydraulic circuit should still be completely sealed I think. WD40 ingress should, therefore, not be an issue.

*Awaits prompt correction Whistle
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 04:52
sixygti2

Seasoned Pro

Location: Tunbridge Wells

Registered: 21 Apr 2007

Posts: 2,778

Status: Offline

Post #8
No the nipple didn't turn at all!

Ok, should be fine then. I guess I could just stuff something in the hole to block it if I have to.

Still think it's going to a be a bugger to get out though!

________________________________________

Still watching you...
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 21:33
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

Posts: 7,757

Status: Offline

Post #9
Just bear in mind that if you start hammering a Torx bit into the remains of the nipple you will almost certainly break through into the hollow part and start leaking fluid.

________________________________________

Rich
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 23:02
smegal

Seasoned Pro

Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

Posts: 5,940

Status: Offline

Post #10
sixygti2 wrote:
No the nipple didn't turn at all!

Ok, should be fine then. I guess I could just stuff something in the hole to block it if I have to.

Still think it's going to a be a bugger to get out though!



I'll be impressed if you can get it out. Just give it a try and get a new one if you need to.

________________________________________

Ex SC-6

Now in a Megane R26
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 23:05
sixygti2

Seasoned Pro

Location: Tunbridge Wells

Registered: 21 Apr 2007

Posts: 2,778

Status: Offline

Post #11
Rich E wrote:
Just bear in mind that if you start hammering a Torx bit into the remains of the nipple you will almost certainly break through into the hollow part and start leaking fluid.


Ok rich, noted!

Its off the car as it's a spare caliper so will hopefully be able to easily catch watch does leak out or soak it up!

Thanks

________________________________________

Still watching you...
Posted 14th Jan 2011 at 23:50
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

Posts: 7,757

Status: Offline

Post #12
Ah cool, if it's off the car then there's nothing to worry about.

________________________________________

Rich
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 00:04
blaze wip

Senior User

Location: Hexham

Registered: 07 Sep 2009

Posts: 926

Status: Offline

Post #13
A liberal application of plusgas, a cuppa while it sets in, a pozidrive bit in an impact screwdriver, ONE good smack with a bfh and a standard pozi screwdriver should see you right. Wink

Dont forget to have the replacement nipple to hand before you start.

EDIT: Scrap the last bit with it being off the car. Thumbs up

________________________________________



mechanical_repairs wrote:

i feel like giving her a good dry bumming session.
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 00:09
sport1901966

Senior User

Location: Hertfordshire/Epsom

Registered: 17 Aug 2006

Posts: 687

Status: Offline

Post #14
I would recommend some carefully applied heat also. You'd need to be sure you've done all you can before starting to take them off because by the time you realise its turning it'll either be ok or have sheared.

Rears are definately worse, I havent had a problem with fronts so far..touch wood!.... but had a few rears go on me.

Good luck!
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 02:38
sixygti2

Seasoned Pro

Location: Tunbridge Wells

Registered: 21 Apr 2007

Posts: 2,778

Status: Offline

Post #15
Thanks for the tips guys, will try to sort it over the weekend!

Thumbs up

________________________________________

Still watching you...
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 03:19
sixygti2

Seasoned Pro

Location: Tunbridge Wells

Registered: 21 Apr 2007

Posts: 2,778

Status: Offline

Post #16
Sodding torx bit snapped in the sodding bleed nipple!

How does that happen!!??

May try drilling it out now... I dont wanna give up on it yet LOL

________________________________________

Still watching you...
Posted 15th Jan 2011 at 19:32
coskev

Seasoned Pro

Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

Posts: 3,132

Status: Offline

Post #17
Don't think you will be able to drill it out with a torx bit stuck in thereSad

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 03:29
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #18
Nope, the high tensile Torx bit will be harder than the drill. If you want to stand a chance and you can get at it use a grinder to flatten off the broken bit, then centre punch it ecactly in the middle, if you can find a way of clamping on and securing a drill bush over the broken bit even better. Use a pillar drill and plenty of tapping fluid and you just might get away with it. Only thing is to stop drilling as soon as you have reached the end of the broken off bit. The nipples are relatively soft and if you go all the way through and damage the aluminium seat at the bottom of the hole tyhe caliper is scrap anyway. New ones are'nt massive money though so if it takes more than an hour or two it really is'nt worth the effort.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 03:35
phillipm

Seasoned Pro

Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

Posts: 20,607

Status: Offline

Post #19
The torx bit is relatively hard so with cheap drill bits you'll need to go slow on the revs, plenty of pressure and make sure the tip is lubricated with moly-d or similar. If you go at it full tilt you'll just overheat the tip of the drill and it'll go soft as shit.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 03:58
sixygti2

Seasoned Pro

Location: Tunbridge Wells

Registered: 21 Apr 2007

Posts: 2,778

Status: Offline

Post #20
Thanks for the advice guys.

I did give it a go, but as you say, the torx bit was hard as! So gave up.

I did manage ti strip the bits off I needed, sliders, piston etc, as they were in better nick than mine. So hopefully i'll be able to get some new rubbers and swap them over. Was just hoping I could swap the whole thing as I knew it was a good working one. Hay ho, you live and learn.

As its the second time this piston has stuck out and ground down the pad, could it be the handbrake mechanism or is it just the fact that the sliders and piston are showing signs of corrosion and its not able to retract?

________________________________________

Still watching you...
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 04:28
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #21
sixygti2 wrote:
Thanks for the advice guys.

I did give it a go, but as you say, the torx bit was hard as! So gave up.

I did manage ti strip the bits off I needed, sliders, piston etc, as they were in better nick than mine. So hopefully i'll be able to get some new rubbers and swap them over. Was just hoping I could swap the whole thing as I knew it was a good working one. Hay ho, you live and learn.

As its the second time this piston has stuck out and ground down the pad, could it be the handbrake mechanism or is it just the fact that the sliders and piston are showing signs of corrosion and its not able to retract?



Disconnect the cable, if it moves freely in its outer sheath then it has to be a problem with the slider mechanism (Most likely this as it usually is)

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 18th Jan 2011 at 13:43
ksung17

Regular

Location: Darlington/Aylesford

Registered: 05 Jan 2009

Posts: 495

Status: Offline

Post #22
mine were seized. and got told of a friend to apply heat which worked a treat!
Posted 1st Feb 2011 at 04:27
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,793

Status: Offline

Post #23
i think heating them up or wd40'ing them liberally beforehand works a treat, combined with proper brake spanners. i've never had an issue with them rounding off or siezing in whatsoever yet touch wood

________________________________________

306 rallye reproduction decals (full sets/individual decals) | 306 b-pillar textured vinyl weatherstrips
306 slam panel esso stickers | 306 yellow / orange / pension fund red side door badges
gti6 inlet manifold badges | 306 rear boot badges (p2/p3)
winner of Extraction of toys from prams with outstanding vigour award 2009 [source: gti6 owners club]
Posted 1st Feb 2011 at 15:10
405gti6

Junior User

Location: Norway

Registered: 05 Jan 2011

Posts: 70

Status: Offline

Post #24
Blow torch is the weapon of choice when loosening these suckers. With enough heat they almost fall out by themself!

________________________________________

XU10J4RS powered 405 Big grin.
Posted 22nd Feb 2011 at 21:08

All times are GMT. The time is now 23:44

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.