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Author Subject: Brake caliper bleed nipple sizes?
prism7guy

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Post #1
I'm putting new fluid in my car next weekend, i've been out tonight and brushed down all the nipples and sprayed them with wd40 to help loosen them a little but i bet at least one will snap when im doing it, can anyone confirm what sizes i will need to have as spares incase i do end up snapping one?

I used the search but didnt really come up with anything definitive. I asked at pug when i called in earlier but their computers were down and the local motor factors couldnt tell me either so i bought two which he said would be most likely to be the right size.

The rears looked smaller than the fronts, but if anyone could confirm sizes i would be really grateful.
Thanks. Smile

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 00:39
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #2
7mm at the rear, which are the ones most likely to snap, and 10mm at the front, never had one of these snap yet.

WD40 unfortunately wont do much at all, you can get freezing spray that will help.

if they have had the dust caps on them though you're usually fine Smile

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Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 00:55
prism7guy

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Post #3
Doh
Only one front and one rear had the dust caps on them.
I think the two that i bought are 10mm, i'll have to go round and look for some 7mm ones after work tomorrow.
Thanks for letting me know Thumbs up

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 01:40
tvrfan007

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Post #4
You can get awkward rear bleed nipples out successfully if you don't just go at it hammer and tongs.

Take the time to apply plus gas to penetrate the nipple thread daily starting plenty in advance, tap the nipple square on with a hammer, and/or apply heat to the nipple and use plus gas to cool off. (Note, plus gas is flammable so don't do it more than once). When you're ready to do, use a good fitting 6 sided socket to crack it off making sure you're not canting over.

If you can be bothered, it's worth putting PTFE tape or copper grease on the nipple threads to help you in the future.

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Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 01:55
prism7guy

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Post #5
Cheers for that tvrfan.
I'll keep my eye out for some plusgas on my travels.

Is there any difference between the Brembo and Brembo max discs?
I'll be getting new discs all round and was just wondering whether its worth the extra couple of quid for the 'max' versions. I'll be getting them from gsf most likely.

Just got to choose what fluid to use in the system aswell now, i've been thinking about AP racing 600.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 20th Mar 2010 at 22:22
prism7guy

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Post #6
Today i checked all the bleed nipples, none at all were seized or sheared, which is a massive bonus.
I have 4 spares now LOL

I'm replacing the normal brake lines with some braided ones, i went out and bought these in preperation:
clicky
clicky

But it appears that some of the unions on the car need a 11mm flare nut spanner Doh
My options are to get the old 1.4 fired up tomorrow and source one or take my angle grinder to one of my 11mm ring spanners, which i guess will severely weaken it LOL

Am i right in thinking that where the copper brake lines meet the current rubber hoses only the union at the copper line side needs undoing?
The side with the rubber hose looks very awkward to get to to hold in some places.

If anyone else has replaced theirs and has any hints and tips on how to prevent as much damage as possible i would appreciate it.

I have been searching for plusgas and the local machine mart didnt have it neither did gsf, is there any other shop which will be open on a sunday where you can get it from?

Is it wise to use PTFE tape on all the joints and bleed nipples when im putting the system back together?

Cheers Smile


________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 28th Mar 2010 at 05:00
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #7
Draper do one that you can get in most motorfactors for about

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Posted 28th Mar 2010 at 05:08
prism7guy

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Post #8
Thumbs up Thanks.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 28th Mar 2010 at 06:34
oldbrownshoe

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Post #9
Hi, don't bother using the same hose end fitting.
it's terrible to work with as you'v already find.
search for hose with the same length but with end fitting were the banjo bolt screws perpendicular to the hose axis.
this way the hose ends are undependable.
it's much easier to work with, that way you can even tight the bolt with socket wrench .
the original method is so stupid enforcing you to open the other line end or free the caliper out.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMH0qabtNFo&feature=player_embedded

as for Flare Nut Spanner i recommend the Facom set , as it has superior design enabling you to apply more force while avoid slip

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Posted 28th Mar 2010 at 12:48
tvrfan007

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Post #10
I used PTFE tape on the threads, but purely because it enables vacuum bleeding to work faultlessly with no thread leaks. If you are pump bleeding, copper grease is fine.

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Posted 28th Mar 2010 at 22:38
buzzbrightyear

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Post #11
i got my spanner from halfords, still rounds the flare nuts off though.

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Posted 29th Mar 2010 at 06:05
prism7guy

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Post #12
I managed to get it all done yesterday, one flare nut started to round so i got the mole grips on it and saved it, all the others were relatively easy to do.

The brakes feel a little spongey so i will re-bleed them next weekend, i treated the calipers to new bleed nipples too with a nice coating of copper slip on the threads so hopefully any future work on them will be much easier with less chance of breaking the nipples.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 29th Mar 2010 at 11:49
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

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Post #13
To save starting a new thread, does anyone know if the thread for the rears are M7 x 1 or M7 x 1.25 and also how long the standard nipple is?

Cheers.

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Posted 16th Feb 2013 at 16:09
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #14
Just found out they are M7 x 1. Smile

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Posted 16th Feb 2013 at 16:22
mr swampy s16

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Post #15
Yep m7 x1. From memory they are about16mm thread length
Posted 16th Feb 2013 at 16:26
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #16
Ok cheers, I've just bought some so hopefully they're correct.

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Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 16th Feb 2013 at 16:40
meoldchina

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Post #17

If the bleed nipples are seized/sheared is it possible to just change the bleed nipples?

Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 08:47
owain

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Post #18
Only if you can get the old ones out, else it's new caliper time Thumbs up

I bought a few spares in bulk and replace them every now and again as a matter of course to try and stop it happening. As mentioned in this thread, it's only normally the rears that are the problem.

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Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 08:58
meoldchina

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Post #19
Thanks for confirming that Owain!
Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 09:53
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

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Post #20
Just to confirm, the ones I bought (M7x1) were correct for anyone wishing to buy any. Thumbs up

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"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 10:11
eliotrw

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Post #21
For rears?

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Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 21:40
owain

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Post #22
Yup.

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Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 21:41
beez_neez_gt

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Post #23
I use aluminium graphite grease now rather than copper grease, its better at water stopping etc.

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Posted 5th Mar 2013 at 22:15
Ray Finkle

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Post #24
I recently went through a seized/snapped bleed nipple on the rear,a guy ended up getting it out finally and worked his magic but the end result was the new nipple is like a loose tooth ; ( so looks like the caliper is dead.car still up on stands while I get the replacement calipewr on.that was the first attempted aswell btw now im panicking about the other 3

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Laces out Dan
Posted 7th Nov 2013 at 14:44
clen666

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Registered: 12 Feb 2009

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Post #25
Nice thread revival, quite apt as I've just snapped a front and rear bleed nipple when trying to bleed the 106s brakes.

So thanks for reminding me how p**sed off I was this morning Doh

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Posted 7th Nov 2013 at 18:16

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