|
displaying posts 1 to 21 of 21
| Author | Subject: Steering rack end replacing |
 darrengti
Regular  Location: Exeter Registered: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 372 Status: Offline |
Post #1
I need to replace the steering rack end on the nearside for MOT, can this be done on the car or do I have to drop the subframe down to get in there?If I've given it the wrong name it's what I'd call a track rod which then screws into the end of the steering rack. Thanks in advance. |
 Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 18:21
|
|
|
smighall
Smeg-all  Location: b*tching and Whinging Registered: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 10,012 Status: Offline |
Post #2
If you're talking about the track rod, and not the track rod end, then you can get some waterpump pliers and grip around the ball and crack them off, then they just unscrew. One side is much more tricky than the other, i just can't remember which (think its the N/S one)________________________________________  Seat Leon Cupra FR / 306 GTI6 / Breaking 205 GTI6 / Caterham 7 / Mercedes Sprinter 311CDI LWB Sold: Fisher Fury - Laguna DCI Estate - P1 306 XSI - E30 BMW 325i Baur Convertible - Daihatsu Fourtack - Suzuki GSXR600 - 205 Rallye |
|
Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 20:02
|
|
|
fletch
Track Head  Location: The nearest Shell garage Registered: 12 Jun 2004 Posts: 12,273 Status: Offline |
Post #3
N/S is trickier  |
|
Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 20:03
|
|
|
craigy_87
Seasoned Pro  Location: wishaw Registered: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 1,325 Status: Offline |
Post #4
is there a guide on here? i'm sure i've seen one unless i'm just thinking of the TRE guide |
|
Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 21:10
|
|
|
darrengti
Regular Location: Exeter Registered: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 372 Status: Offline |
Post #5
Yeh its the nearside, looked a bit of a b*tch to get at that's why I asked about dropping subframe. But if I can get grips on there I reckon I've got a fair chance of getting it off.Atleast I now know it can be done in situ. |
|
Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 22:25
|
|
|
idnan
Regular  Location: Birmingham Registered: 05 Sep 2007 Posts: 294 Status: Offline |
Post #6
I've got to do this in a few weeks time. I did the o/s one and that wasn't too bad but as mentioned by others, the n/s is harder. I think you have to peel back the endcap rather than removing the gaiter like on the other side.I've heard removing the wishbone along with turning the steering wheel all the way to left gives plenty of room to get something around the track rod. I was told to use some threadlock on the threaded part of the track rod where it enters the rack, is that what you're supposed to do? |
|
Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 23:00
|
|
|
jonnie205
Seasoned Pro  Location: Bicester Registered: 10 Apr 2005 Posts: 4,146 Status: Offline |
Post #7
stilsons are the tool you want, yo will have to jam the car on full lock else it will pull back and make access harder |
|
Posted 27th Jan 2010 at 23:18
|
|
|
adam b
Seasoned Pro  Location: The Nam Registered: 24 Jan 2006 Posts: 12,828 Status: Offline |
Post #8
Ahhh good to know - i'll do them with the rack off the car then  ________________________________________ Nothing to see here |
|
Posted 28th Jan 2010 at 00:38
|
|
|
darrengti
Regular Location: Exeter Registered: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 372 Status: Offline |
Post #9
idnan wrote: I think you have to peel back the endcap rather than removing the gaiter like on the other side. I've heard removing the wishbone along with turning the steering wheel all the way to left gives plenty of room to get something around the track rod. I had a go at this today, with no success. I removed the wishbone and can see this gives a lot better access to the track rod. But it was the chuffing rubber boot that caused all the issues, how on earth you can peel it back out the way is beyond me. I had a go, it stretched and deformed a bit but could not get it back over. The other option was to remove the rubber boot, but cant see how it's attatched, it's as if it goes back under where the ram is connected to the arm. hmm. Any help would be appreciated. Bit f*cked off with it today! |
|
Posted 30th Jan 2010 at 21:53
|
|
|
thugpuggin
Seasoned Pro  Location: Bristol Registered: 10 Apr 2004 Posts: 26,784 Status: Offline |
Post #10
adam b wrote: Ahhh good to know - i'll do them with the rack off the car then I'd have thought you'd be replacing all of that without fail Adam especially after most of it needs it after the engine removal. ________________________________________ Black X Reg PIII.VGTi 6 A4212 pt 1 A4212 pt 2 Searching the streets of Bristol for 1.36p/day.Joint Kent Leader |
|
Posted 31st Jan 2010 at 05:33
|
|
|
darrengti
Regular Location: Exeter Registered: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 372 Status: Offline |
Post #11
Done it  And yes it's an absolute pig. Used some heat on the rubber boot, pushed it, prised it, and in the end after about half hour it just decided to split, arse! Well with the boot out the way swopping the track rod was easy, mole grips on the end of it and turn anti clock wise with a fair bit of pressure then just unwound easily. Fitting the new one was just the reverse. As for the rubber boot, well its been super glued, cable tied and covered in grease, fingers crossed for MOT re-test tomorrow. |
|
Posted 31st Jan 2010 at 21:26
|
|
|
fletch
Track Head Location: The nearest Shell garage Registered: 12 Jun 2004 Posts: 12,273 Status: Offline |
Post #12
What does the haynes manual say? Unfortunately I've never seen read anyone on here changing the N/S on the car. |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 02:24
|
|
|
fletch
Track Head Location: The nearest Shell garage Registered: 12 Jun 2004 Posts: 12,273 Status: Offline |
Post #13
Oops sorry meant to post his earlier, but forum was down and refreshed the page. |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 02:25
|
|
|
buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro  Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,894 Status: Offline |
Post #14
i didnt think these would wear too bad________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 03:14
|
|
|
fletch
Track Head Location: The nearest Shell garage Registered: 12 Jun 2004 Posts: 12,273 Status: Offline |
Post #15
Probably bent? |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 03:15
|
|
|
darrengti
Regular Location: Exeter Registered: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 372 Status: Offline |
Post #16
No, it wasn't bent. It failed the MOT on the 'inner ball joint' which the tester told me is the one on the end of the track rod that screws into the rack. And tbh when I removed it there was a lot more play in it than the new one.It would be such an easy part to change if it wasn't for that damn rubber boot. Bit of a poor design by Peugeot, o/s one comes off and can be replaced, but can see no way the n/s one can be removed. Hey ho, fingers crossed it goes through MOT tomorrow because I'm not keen on removing the rack. |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 04:44
|
|
|
welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #17
at least the n/s one is rubber, the o/s is plastic and a fair bit less stretchy!________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 15:46
|
|
|
idnan
Regular Location: Birmingham Registered: 05 Sep 2007 Posts: 294 Status: Offline |
Post #18
Can't you put a new rubber cap on the n/s? Surely its just a case of sliding it down the track rod from the outer end and pushing into place.As mentioned above I am waiting to do mine but I don't want to leave it without rubber gaiter if the old one splits. |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 21:46
|
|
|
darrengti
Regular Location: Exeter Registered: 23 Jan 2007 Posts: 372 Status: Offline |
Post #19
idnan wrote: Can't you put a new rubber cap on the n/s? Surely its just a case of sliding it down the track rod from the outer end and pushing into place. Looks that easy but couldn't actually find a way of getting that rubber boot off. It goes under the collar that the ram bolts too. That collar tyoe thing seemed pretty well stuck there. Not corroded or anything just like it was never going to come off! On the positive side my super glue repair worked and we now have 12months ticket |
|
Posted 1st Feb 2010 at 22:47
|
|
|
beanie
Senior User  Location: West Midlands Registered: 02 May 2005 Posts: 563 Status: Offline |
Post #20
the rubber boot has a metal ring in the rubber and is pressed on.it sounds like youve been removing the rubber but leaving the ring on the end of the rack. you need to use a sharp chisel or screw driver and hammer the gater off with the ring, theres a hole in the subframe for access. i did mine yesterday and struggled untill i figured out how it was fitted, also had the pug special tool to remove the steering arm, which slides over the arm and grips the u/j part of the steering arm. ________________________________________ VW Jetta GTI - Castle Combe, Donington Park, Curborough, Silverstone, CroftSubaru Legacy Turbo - Castle Combe, Donington Park, Bedford Autodrome, Snetterton Peugeot 306 GTI 6 - Donington Park, Nurburgring, Curborough GTI 6 build date, 21st july 1999. Owned since, 9th october 2004, 34100 miles. |
|
Posted 16th Jan 2011 at 21:38
|
|
|
ravemercer
Regular  Location: kent Registered: 18 Jan 2009 Posts: 422 Status: Offline |
Post #21
Done mine last week n/s was a slag stanley knifed it of after spending half an hour trying to pop it off with screwdrivers. covered it with a uni c.v boot cable tied on. |
|
Posted 29th Jan 2011 at 04:38
|
|
The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.
Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.