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Author Subject: Replacing Door Electrical Connector
mwl001

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Location: Bolton

Registered: 24 Jul 2005

Posts: 422

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Post #1
My drivers side speaker stopped working the other day and after a bit of investigation, I traced the problem to a broken wire at the electrical connector between the door and the car. There were 2 other broken wires, all very close to the moulded bit of the connector. A couple of other wires were showing signs of wearing so I decided to replace the connector using the replacement part available from Peugeot (Part no 6542.VQ for about
Posted 9th Feb 2011 at 04:42
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #2
looks pretty straightforward, how much free play is there on the loom and how much do you need to srtip off the inside of the car?

personally I would have staggered the joins and soldered+heatshrunk them Smile

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Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 01:55
mwl001

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Location: Bolton

Registered: 24 Jul 2005

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Post #3
Hardly any free play on the loom - which makes staggering joints difficult and is one of the reasons I went for crimps.
Only need to strip enough for the crimp.

If soldering - I would definately go for the new rubber cover.
Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 02:01
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

Registered: 07 Apr 2004

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Post #4
I got a loom repair kit a few years ago and tried to get the driver's door boot as that was torn. They got me a rear door one. I took it back and they said the front ones were no longer available. I looked on Service Box and found that, although the driver's door boot was not shown, the passenger's one was, and that they are the same.

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S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
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Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 21:11
mwl001

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Location: Bolton

Registered: 24 Jul 2005

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Post #5
That might explain why the local pug dealer told me it was included in the kit when ordered it but it wasn't there when I went to pick it up.

Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 17:29
steve h gti-6

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Location: Carterton

Registered: 04 Dec 2006

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Post #6
Good FAQ me thinks and ill be using it when ive got to replace mine LOL

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Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 19:39
dan gti-6

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Location: Winchester

Registered: 26 Jan 2008

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Post #7

Anybody know what pin 23 is for??
Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 20:32
rudolf

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Location: Skelmersdale

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Post #8
You can you get enough access by just releasing the check strap and chocking the door to stop it hitting the wing so you won't need to re-align it.

________________________________________

S Reg Diablo standardsSpec SORNED
R Reg Nile standard spec written off then repaired
X Reg Astor in need of TLC
R Reg Nile to restore
Set of Lions to fit.
Posted 11th Oct 2009 at 21:32
smegal

Seasoned Pro

Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

Posts: 5,940

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Post #9
This thread desperately needs FAQ ing.

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Ex SC-6

Now in a Megane R26
Posted 8th Feb 2011 at 04:22
smegal

Seasoned Pro

Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

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Post #10
I will add 2 things though.

Unbolt the single bolt in the hinge (makes putting the door on easier)


I would solder the connections instead of crimping.

________________________________________

Ex SC-6

Now in a Megane R26
Posted 8th Feb 2011 at 04:24
rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,793

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Post #11
as above, solder every time with some heatshrink, done mine last january and it's been fine. i crimped them in the past and they broke apart within a few weeks!

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Posted 8th Feb 2011 at 04:38
mwl001

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Location: Bolton

Registered: 24 Jul 2005

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Post #12
Did mine about a year ago and no problems with the crimps, if you have a decent crimp tool (preferably a ratchet one) and decent crimps then it should be fine but there is also nothing wrong with soldering and heat shrinking.
Posted 8th Feb 2011 at 22:59
vts_tibi

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Location: Nuneaton

Registered: 27 Apr 2007

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Post #13
I guess this connector can work with all of the 306s and Xsaras as all of the pins are in the connector, so you just use whichever pin you want.

Nice find! I didn't know such things existed.

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Posted 8th Feb 2011 at 23:58
ablister

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Location: fife

Registered: 30 Oct 2005

Posts: 522

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Post #14
you can also get these as 'straight' connectors (unlike this 90 degree door loom) which work with the engine wiring loom where it joins the main engine bay harness

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306 rallye, Richard Longman engine

rc10gt
Posted 9th Feb 2011 at 00:51
musclebeach

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 13 Aug 2006

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Post #15
I've had it done on P45 HRM on the right side, NOT a job for the everyday amateur....we soldered and heatshrunk as said...took about 6 hours as there was only a very vague guide at the time and spent ages finding a pin map on the net that was actually some use!

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Posted 9th Feb 2011 at 04:32
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Post #16
FAQd

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Posted 21st Feb 2011 at 23:09

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