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Author Subject: Another rear beam thread,
davedgti6

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Location: whiston, prescot

Registered: 28 May 2006

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Post #1
Had a good morning today striping a spare beam i bought of mbd_75 the other week (88k i think), quite pleased with myself as i've never done one before,

The beam and shafts look in great condition (dont think beam had ever been lowered) as do the bearings, so question to the beam experts on here is this, is it worth changing the bearings on this? suppose its better off doing now its apart, and also wheres best to get the refurb kit from? Pug or does Miles supply the kits?

Anyway heres some pic's,


one shaft,

other shaft,

Bearing,

Other Bearing,

Inside Tube,

Another,

Lovely day too,


My reasons for doing this is because the beam on the car has done 156k(is also creaking a lot too) and is a little too low really, and i can now fit some bigger torsion bars (21mm i think) and a bigger arb, Smile

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 01:03
darkgti6

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Location: Bracknell

Registered: 07 Jun 2008

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Post #2
These look pukka compared to mine!

Cant you just put some fresh grease in and re-assemble it now?Unsure

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:02
miles

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Location: Ringwood

Registered: 28 Dec 2002

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Post #3
Thats dam good for a 306 beam, I;d just change the outer's, check the inner's, New seals and ring cup's and job done

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306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:11
davedgti6

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Post #4
darkgti6 wrote:
These look pukka compared to mine!

Cant you just put some fresh grease in and re-assemble it now?Unsure


thats what i was thinking, but one of the members who refurb these all the time might say otherwise, how much did it cost you for your refurb kit if you dont mind me asking?

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:13
davedgti6

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Post #5
beaten too it LOL

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:14
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

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Post #6
Looks damned tidy that, I'd probably just get some new seals/grease and leave it.

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:16
davedgti6

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Post #7
miles wrote:
Thats dam good for a 306 beam, I;d just change the outer's, check the inner's, New seals and ring cup's and job done


Thanks for the advice Miles, can you supply me with those or am i better off going to Pug?

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:16
miles

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Location: Ringwood

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Post #8
Depends when you need them, My next Stock order is due late next week

________________________________________

306 Rallye Sptint/Race Car, 205 CTI 1.9 8v to name a few

Road, Track and Race/Rally car preparation to your personal requirements,
Full Workshop & Diagnostic Facilities
New and Second parts, from Plugs to Turbo's
We now also carry out Routine Servicing
www.pugracing.com

& FB Page, https://www.facebook.com/PugRacing

Ebay; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Pug-Racing-Shop

2012/2013/2014/2019 Class Winners at Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb & Joint overall, Class record too along the way,
Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:24
davedgti6

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Post #9
not in any hurry, pm sent Thumbs up

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Posted 21st Sep 2009 at 04:28
davedgti6

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Location: whiston, prescot

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Post #10
Hi, after a bit of a favour here, just trying to finish off my rear beam refurb/upgrade project and i'm having problems trying to find someone/a company to machine out the centre of one of my trailing arm shafts,

I am fitting a larger anti roll bar @ 27mm in diameter, it fits through one trailing arm shaft no problem (as ones 29mm already) but i need the other one enlarging to 29mm from 26mm,

Does anyone know where i could get this done? preferably in the northwest/merseyside/preston area's,(struggling to find someone)

I have had the shaft pressed out already (cost me

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Posted 3rd Oct 2009 at 02:15
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #11
anyone who has access to a lathe or some sort I guess would help, it's not going to cost as much as a new shaft I doubt!

try PhillipM actually, he might be able to assist.

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Posted 3rd Oct 2009 at 02:35
davedgti6

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Post #12
Got it sorted Big grin , cost me

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Posted 5th Oct 2009 at 22:17
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

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Post #13
Thumbs up

I was just about to say I'd do it for you Doh

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Posted 5th Oct 2009 at 22:20
davedgti6

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Post #14
phillipm wrote:
Thumbs up

I was just about to say I'd do it for you Doh


Thanks Phil, you where my next pm LOL till i remembered that engineering place, not really there thing as they do a lot of mirror finish stainless steel (looks like chrome finish really) but they sorted me out, the

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Posted 5th Oct 2009 at 22:38
davedgti6

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Location: whiston, prescot

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Post #15
Hi after more info here Whistle sorry, i'm about to set the ride height, the front is lowered 35/30mm on eibachs so i'd like the back to be the same -say 30mm lower,

As i understand it the measurement for standard height is 330mm between shock bolt hole centres and to lower it you deduct 2mm for every 3mm you want to lower, so to lower 30mm the shock bolt centre measurement would be 330mm - 20mm = 310mm,

So to lower 30mm from standard height the measurement between shock bolt centres would be 310mm, is this correct? Edit:- i've also got 21mm torsion bars so do i have to deduct more to allow for this?

Anyways some more pics of my build:-

New bearing versus old, note the new bearings are taller and have seals on them, but less needles (they are genuine pug -believe these are the only ones you can get now)



Repainted beam tube,


New bearing in,


Cup seal thingy,


Seal fitted,


All advice very much appreciated Smile

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Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 02:04
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #16
stock torsion bars + interior still in?

I'd try 312mm.

edit, just noticed the 21's, 310 or even 308-309.

give it a try, easy enough to just stick both in without securing the ends or fitting the ARB and dropping it onto the ground.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 02:16
davedgti6

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Location: whiston, prescot

Registered: 28 May 2006

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Post #17
welshpug! wrote:
stock torsion bars + interior still in?

I'd try 312mm.

edit, just noticed the 21's, 310 or even 308-309.

give it a try, easy enough to just stick both in without securing the ends or fitting the ARB and dropping it onto the ground.


Thanks for the reply Thumbs up , will try 309 then, cheers Smile

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Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 02:22
darkgti6

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Location: Bracknell

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Post #18
I notice the new style Pug bearings are made in GermanyWhistle

I dont know about you but this seems like a bit of a plus to meLOL less rollers or not!

German bearings got the Germans all the way to Paris but French bearings didnt get the French to BerlinSmile LOL

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Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 04:04
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

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Post #19
They weren't German bearings, they were Swiss...

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- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 04:06
dorkvonwaterfall

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Location: Ikast, Denmark

Registered: 23 Jun 2008

Posts: 66

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Post #20
put a couple of grease nipples in, now you`re messing with it...
Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 13:47
alastairh

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Location: Kettering

Registered: 14 Jun 2007

Posts: 375

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Post #21
dorkvonwaterfall wrote:
put a couple of grease nipples in, now you`re messing with it...


Why? Whistle

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205 GTI6
Primera GT
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Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 14:07
iplay

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Location: Number Wang

Registered: 18 May 2006

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Post #22
davedgti6 wrote:
Hi after more info here Whistle sorry, i'm about to set the ride height, the front is lowered 35/30mm on eibachs so i'd like the back to be the same -say 30mm lower,

As i understand it the measurement for standard height is 330mm between shock bolt hole centres and to lower it you deduct 2mm for every 3mm you want to lower, so to lower 30mm the shock bolt centre measurement would be 330mm - 20mm = 310mm,

So to lower 30mm from standard height the measurement between shock bolt centres would be 310mm, is this correct? Edit:- i've also got 21mm torsion bars so do i have to deduct more to allow for this?

I think a more important measurement is how the chasis sits front to rear. There are 2 measuring points next to the jacking points (10mm sqaure cut outs). Measure the front and rear. The rear should be 10mm higher than the front. You need a very flat surface to take the measurements.
Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 14:52
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,766

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Post #23
wouldn't bother with grease nipples, unless you really want to carry 30 kilo's of old used grease about with you inside the tube LOL

quite right actually neil, was just working on the fact that the front had been dropped a known 30mm so dropping the rear would maintain the factory slope of the sills Wink

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 14:59
davedgti6

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Location: whiston, prescot

Registered: 28 May 2006

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Post #24
dorkvonwaterfall wrote:
put a couple of grease nipples in, now you`re messing with it...

Thought about doing this but cant see how the grease would get to the bearings as they have seals on them? So maybe waist of time?
Thoughts anyone?

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Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 16:06
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,766

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Post #25
see above...


nipples are actually a good idea if you had a plain bearing and the nipple was putting grease directly into them (i.e a phosphor bronze bush with a groove in it) but otherwise no.

much better to just replace the bearings every few years than waste money on grease.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 16:18

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