displaying posts 101 to 125 of 220

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Author Subject: 306 Rallye race car build
mxcrazy

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Location: hastings

Registered: 22 Jun 2009

Posts: 456

Status: Offline

Post #101
pdd144c wrote:
That's it Rich, still trying to do this on a budget lol!

Nah mine isn't, I be making my own loom to suit the car, although I believe he does do that for a number of different cars.


Had a look at m-techs website, is thier ECU not the megasquirt system just pieced together? little confused really. Im going to be after a menagement system some time this year and these M-tech pieces are very well priced. thanks
Posted 5th Jan 2010 at 17:25
pdd144c

Senior User

Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #102
It is to a degree. Matt has made the software very usable though, and like you say the price is very good. Once it's on and mapped I'll let you know the results.

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FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 5th Jan 2010 at 18:37
mxcrazy

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Location: hastings

Registered: 22 Jun 2009

Posts: 456

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Post #103
pdd144c wrote:
It is to a degree. Matt has made the software very usable though, and like you say the price is very good. Once it's on and mapped I'll let you know the results.


Oh right ok, sounds good, thanks
Posted 6th Jan 2010 at 03:52
pdd144c

Senior User

Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #104
Got a bit more done this weekend, fitted the oil cooler kit, cage now goes out to the front struts, and the two looms for the front of the car have been started, including making new holes in the bulkhead for them to come out of. Rear loom is now complete, braided and terminated! Pics below:








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205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 10th Jan 2010 at 23:38
r*byb

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Location: Tamworth

Registered: 15 Sep 2007

Posts: 421

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Post #105
How can i get 2 degree's + of front camber, don't mind having to cut bits as it's a track car, but really want about 2 - 2.5 deg.

Cheers

________________________________________

Team Low Compression
Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 14:49
lotek

Seasoned Pro

Location: Berkshire

Registered: 04 Dec 2007

Posts: 6,107

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Post #106
r*byb wrote:
How can i get 2 degree's + of front camber, don't mind having to cut bits as it's a track car, but really want about 2 - 2.5 deg.

Cheers


extened wishbones, eccentric/adjustable top mounts.


Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 15:30
pdd144c

Senior User

Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #107
Why only 2 degrees? You can do it a number of ways as Lotek said, new lower arms, remove the strut tops and fabricate new ones to sit further in, and use eccentric topmounts, or a combination of the lot. Personally I'm going to move the strut tops over.

Pads are here too Lotek if you're nearby today.

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 15:49
lotek

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Location: Berkshire

Registered: 04 Dec 2007

Posts: 6,107

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Post #108
i shall give ya a call if im able to come up Thumbs up
Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 16:04
r*byb

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Location: Tamworth

Registered: 15 Sep 2007

Posts: 421

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Post #109
Thanks, can you explain to me about moving the top mount over, do you just elongate the holes ? Would you not need to strengthin it somehow?

Cheers

________________________________________

Team Low Compression
Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 18:16
birk

Seasoned Pro

Location: Doncaster

Registered: 24 Oct 2005

Posts: 7,032

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Post #110
On my dimma the top mount has been moved over and a plate used to keep it steady, will get a pic of it later when i take the engine out of it.

________________________________________

Dimma + Gt35 turbo = Ninja
Solid rear beam mounts £130
07889376885
Dan
Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 18:30
pdd144c

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

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Post #111
Well a crude way would be to do that, or get a new strut top strengthening plate welded on and drilled to suit. You can then use an eccentric topmount to adjust it all as required.

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 21st Jan 2010 at 18:57
pdd144c

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

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Post #112
Been a while since I've updated this, finally finished all the wiring, car now runs on the M-Tech base map, front suspension and topmounts fitted, Helix 6 paddel clutch, Rich W flywheel & lower arms and Tranx LSD fitted, car is now ready for rolling road. Loads of other bits made/fitted also!




________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 4th Mar 2010 at 04:09
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #113
You have the same issue with your sleeve nuts on your coilovers as I did when I got mine, not enough thread before hitting the shoulder so you can't get the nut threaded all the way down, not good.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 4th Mar 2010 at 05:40
pdd144c

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

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Post #114
Yeah it's not ideal, but will suffice, it's still got 13mm of thread used... If I drill the spring cup out anymore it will slide up further and rub on the topmount. Even if I did this I'd only gain another 4-5mm. How did you get around yours in the end?

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 4th Mar 2010 at 04:23
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #115
pdd144c wrote:
Yeah it's not ideal, but will suffice, it's still got 13mm of thread used... If I drill the spring cup out anymore it will slide up further and rub on the topmount. Even if I did this I'd only gain another 4-5mm. How did you get around yours in the end?


I sent the buggers back and they turned down the shoulder on the damper shaft by a further 10mm (I asked the c*nts to do this first time around as I had a feeling it would'nt be long enough, took them weeks to get it right but they got there in the end) which you really want to do as the nut is quite weak as it is. It's tough to explain but the sleeve part of the nut is very weak and is only there to locate the rod, the thicker 'nut' part at the top is the bit that does all the work and it is'nt bieng used. You really don't want the sleeve part of the nut coming off as it's all thats holding your shock in place.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 4th Mar 2010 at 05:38
pdd144c

Senior User

Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #116
All makes sense, I'll try it as it is for now, my VTS was like that and did a few thousand miles on the road with no issues!

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 4th Mar 2010 at 17:00
pdd144c

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #117
Had the car mapped today, made 172 bhp and 162 lb/ft torque.

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 10th Mar 2010 at 02:06
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #118
pdd144c wrote:
Had the car mapped today, made 172 bhp and 162 lb/ft torque.


Healthy enough mate, where was that done by the way?

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 10th Mar 2010 at 22:56
mxcrazy

Regular

Location: hastings

Registered: 22 Jun 2009

Posts: 456

Status: Offline

Post #119
pdd144c wrote:
Had the car mapped today, made 172 bhp and 162 lb/ft torque.


What is the full engine spec? Sounds like a healthy gain in torque but id have thought the BHP would have been higher, even on stock cams.
Posted 10th Mar 2010 at 23:00
allesclar

Seasoned Pro

Location: Sheffield

Registered: 17 May 2009

Posts: 4,254

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Post #120
pdd144c wrote:
As above. Just not connected up yet.


got any piccys of it all connect with the catch tank. is it to prevent oil surge or something like that while cornering?

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Team allesclar ®

Posted 10th Mar 2010 at 23:05
pdd144c

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #121
Matt @ M-Tech did the mapping, he did a great job, we weren't going to get any more from the engine in it's current state that's for sure!

Engine is just the original 100,000 mile old lump, it's a lot more driveable now, will do until funds allow a re-build with some new pistons and cams.

Mocal unit is just a breather tank, if you look in the last two photos I posted you can see how it's plumbed in. The hose on the cam cover normally goes in the inlet manifold, which due to running the Jenveys now goes straight to the tank, it vents to atmosphere through the lid.

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 11th Mar 2010 at 00:34
stanley306gti6

Newbie

Location: MALACKY

Registered: 25 Dec 2009

Posts: 12

Status: Offline

Post #122
pdd144c: hello, where you bought the ATS DTC

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http://stanley306gti.rajce.idnes.cz/
Posted 13th Mar 2010 at 22:13
pdd144c

Senior User

Location: Southampton

Registered: 09 Dec 2005

Posts: 550

Status: Offline

Post #123
I got them direct from Domenico @ ATS, we can supply them in the UK if needed.

________________________________________

FOR SALE

205 Turbo Technics complete and 306 Rallye Race Build breaking.
Posted 14th Mar 2010 at 16:50
pete_rallye

Seasoned Pro

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

Status: Offline

Post #124
bo***cks, you beat me to the ATS DTC's! Could you let me know what you paid as I need a few sets, and also did you weigh them before putting a tyre on them?

Are you running arch liners? Just I wouldn't fancy putting my oil cooler there if not, only one small stone away from engine failure!

Is the rest of the engine standard then? There never have been great gains to be had from throtle bodies as the inlets prett good for a standard one.

Looks lke a nice build anyway, good luck with it, do you know what series you're racing in?

________________________________________

Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 14th Mar 2010 at 15:17
stanley306gti6

Newbie

Location: MALACKY

Registered: 25 Dec 2009

Posts: 12

Status: Offline

Post #125
pdd144c:These are 15X7? ET20?
What was the price?
link to the page where you bought them?
thank you....

________________________________________

http://stanley306gti.rajce.idnes.cz/
Posted 14th Mar 2010 at 15:52

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