Nice read so far mate good stuff Engines always fascinate me when their in bits

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RIP Pete Sims

hiya guys, i've stopped for the day. didn't really get a lot done - was helping a friend with his car. everything's apart from the gearbox and engine bay has been cleaned up now. just waiting on parts.

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Deepak Gohil

cheers man. i'm not really going to mess about with anything - i like keeping things standard tbh. i just want it running sweet and clean

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Deepak Gohil

nice clean seats



right, rebuilding the head... i have my own way which i was taught by a proper old school mechanic of rebuiling cylinder heads, and some stuff i do might seem unorthodox to some, but it's how i learnt.

first of all i soaked the valves in a petrol and diesel mix, to loosen the carbon. then each valve was placed with minimal grip into the chuck of a drill. using fine emery cloth - p280 - i spun the valve up and removed the carbon by holding the emery to it. and as you all can see the results are proper good also using a drill shows you whether the stems are bent or not. if they're bent, the valve will try and throw itself out or vibrate when it's being spun at high RPM. mine spun nice and true with no vibrations

i replaced the the valve stem seals with a deep 10mm socket, small hammer and some grease. the grease just made sure the seal stayed in the socket as i located it onto the guide. they were put on gently but firmly, making sure each one made a nice metallic clank when hit showing the seal was all the way down

i lapped them in with a combination of hand and drill. the exhaust valves were badly pitted and required about 10 minutes each to lap in. using the drill here saved a lot of time. when doing this, i use a lot of oil along the stem - this prevents wear to the stem when the valve is being spun up by the drill. also it ensure that the valve will move freely once the engine starts. i know the car will blow some blue smoke because of this but it'll only be for a couple of seconds. once there were nice silver rings around the valve head, the job was done - and hopefully there will be compression!

putting the springs back was quite easy. some people i used to work with used to struggle with the collets. but it took me just over half hour to get all 16 valves securely in! not to boast or anything

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Deepak Gohil

the one on the right is the cylinder that was burning water. i deglazed it but it still seems a little rough compared to the other (which i also deglazed). i'm gonna line it with a tiny bit of oil when the piston's back in so when it burns it the rough edge is taken away...


deglazing was a bit a pain. the cylinder that was burning water was really rough. so i took a medium grit to it first - 180 - followed by a fine grit - 220.

for the other cylinders i just used the fine grit as they weren't that bad.

keeping the cross-hatch design was a bit of a challenge. but i managed to get a nice pattern on the cylinders. keeping the deglazing tool from hitting the oil sprayers at the bottom was harder! no damage though

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Deepak Gohil

Looks good,I wish I had the space for doing my own work,my local garage gets a fortune off me.Running a 6 could be alot cheaper with a garage like that and the will to have ago.

Keep it up and post some of those boring pics We love car pics

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This is the video that made me want a 6

The 6is gone

Would love a space like that to work on my Rallye, i guess im fortunate enough just to have an offroad space!

Im based in South London not far from Sutton, i work next to Paddington station though so thats not a million miles from you. Will be doing an engine rebuild myself towards the end of this year/beginning of next year so am keen to see how you get on and what you think of any companies used

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Just Drive It

this is all on hold now, i've had the worst news. written about it in the general section.

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Deepak Gohil

Little tip, dont p*ss about with a greased socket trying to fit stem seals.

Fit the valve, push it shut then push the seal over the valve stems with your hands. Make sure you push the seals past the collet grooves. Then drop the valve down and push the seals on with a socket. Much easier that messing around with grease, you cant drop any seals this way!

30 minutes to fit the collets!!! I'd get the sack, 5 minutes max!

Well you become a demon collet fitter when you rebuild 20+ heads a week

so i started putting the pistons back yesterday and hid a massive brick wall! i put the rings on and put pistons back into their cylinders. made sure everything was right ie pistons the right way and in the correct bore etc but i went to torque the big end up and it became really tight (even at only 20Nm) so tight infact the crank would seize and wouldn't turn unless the big engs were loose. after some inspecting and testing i realised, although i had the right part from peugeot, the bearing shells were slightly oversized!!!!! i couldn't believe it. i guess it back to the stealers to plead my case and try and get something done about it! p.s i have some photos i'll upload later tonight

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Deepak Gohil

painted the cylinder block using hammerite - i love the way it comes out, nice and clean and subtle

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Deepak Gohil